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Celeriac is roasted, puréed and pickled as part of an achaar in this inventive Indian chaat dish from Will Bowlby. With a cornucopia of contrasting textures and flavours all bouncing off one another, it's a stunning recipe that adds heaps of balanced spice to earthy, sweet celeriac.
2 tsp panch poran, a Bengali and northern Indian spice blend – if you can’t find it to buy simply mix equal quantities of fenugreek, cumin, nigella, fennel and black mustard seeds and toast until fragrant (do not blitz to a powder)
To make the Andhra spice mix, toast all the ingredients in a dry frying pan over a very low heat for 5-10 minutes, until fragrant and beginning to brown. Allow to cool, then blitz to a powder. You’ll have more than you need for this dish, but it will keep in an airtight container
Begin by making the achaar, as this can be done up to a month in advance. Peel and finely dice the celeriac, then weigh out 300g of it (any leftover can be used in the purée). Place in a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients and cook over a low-medium heat until the celeriac is just softened (around 15-20 minutes). Leave to cool completely, then transfer to a jar, seal and store in the fridge for up to a month
2 tsp panch poran, a Bengali and northern Indian spice blend – if you can’t find it to buy simply mix equal quantities of fenugreek, cumin, nigella, fennel and black mustard seeds and toast until fragrant (do not blitz to a powder)
For the chaat mix, preheat an oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Peel and dice the celeriac into 1-inch cubes, then toss with the chilli powder, oil and a pinch of salt. Place on a baking tray and cook for around 25 minutes, until cooked. Allow to cool
While the celeriac roasts in the oven, prepare the purée. Peel and dice the celeriac, then place in a saucepan with the milk and cream, seasoning with a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons of the Andrha spice mix. Bring to the boil, then place a circle of baking paper on the surface of the liquid (known as a cartouche) and turn down to a simmer. Cook for around 20 minutes until the celeriac is soft, then strain the celeriac (reserving the liquid) and place into a blender or food processor. Blitz until smooth, adding back some of the cooking liquid if necessary
Once the roast celeriac has cooled, mix it with the rest of the ingredients for the chaat, adjusting the amount of lime juice and chaat masala to taste
To make the coriander chutney, simply blitz all the ingredients together in a food processor until they form a fine paste. Season to taste with salt and sugar. You'll probably be left with more than you use for this recipe, but it will keep for a few days in the fridge
To serve, ensure the celeriac purée is at room temperature (or slightly warmer), reheating if needed. Place a large spoonful of it on each serving dish, then make a well in the centre and add a teaspoon of achaar per person. Arrange the chaat next to the purée, then garnish with the chutneys, papdi and sev
50g of papdi, (a type of cracker popular in India for chaat dishes)
After falling in love with Indian food whilst working in Mumbai, Will Bowlby returned to the UK to open Kricket, a modern Indian restaurant with plenty of British twists.