Farmed versus wild-fished, line caught versus dredged – despite our best intentions, getting to grips with how seafood reaches our plates can feel challenging. We know we all need to do more to protect our oceans, but exactly what that looks like can be less clear. Thankfully, the Marine Conservation Society, the UK’s leading ocean charity, publishes its Good Fish Guide twice a year to give us a rundown of seafood sustainability. It uses a handy traffic light system to separate species; green, unsurprisingly, is a good choice, amber is okay (indicating that improvements in fishing or farming are needed) and red covers those to avoid. Deciding the ratings is an in-depth task involving factors such as environmental impact and management. For wild-caught fish, ratings are given to individual fisheries, meaning one species alone can have both green and red ratings depending on the way it is caught, for example with a pole and line or trawled, and where it’s caught. 

It might sound like a lot to digest, but the charity uses its findings to bring us an easy-to-understand list of swaps – simple changes we can all make to our shopping basket to be more sustainable. After all, most of the seafood we eat in the UK is made up of what’s known as the big five: cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns. Demand for those species puts huge pressure on a handful of wild stocks, inevitably driving unsustainable farming and fishing practices. That’s why having alternatives is essential. ‘Every fish species plays a unique role in the marine food web,’ Charlotte Coombes, Good Fish Guide manager, says. ‘By diversifying our consumption, we reduce the pressure on vulnerable ecosystems and help to support local fishers and producers. Not only are there lots of like-for-like options out there, but exploring lesser-known species introduces us to new culinary experiences, enriching our palates while lessening the strain on overexploited favourites.’ Here, we’ve taken a look at the latest recommendations from the Marine Conservation Society – and provided recipe inspiration for each from our fantastic chefs.

Stocks of UK cod have been low in recent decades because of warming waters and overfishing. A series of restrictions introduced in 2019 to reduce fishing pressure have promisingly started to yield results, with some populations in the North Sea beginning to recover. However, the charity says it’s early days and more needs to be done to get fishing back to sustainable levels. You’re most likely to see Arctic or Icelandic cod on sale in the UK – this can be a green-rated choice, but sustainability varies depending on how and where it was caught. Until UK stocks recover, the charity recommends swapping cod for hake caught in UK waters, a more sustainable choice. Hake has a similar meaty and flaky texture to cod, and can be swapped in recipes like-for-like. Head this way for our collection of hake (and cod) recipes – our favourites include this delicious pan-fried hake with curried mussels from Chantelle Nicholson, as well as a classic fish and chips from Nathan Outlaw. New to hake? Don’t miss our how to cook guides – they cover everything from poaching and pan-frying to confitting it.

Prawns can be sourced from all over the world, and it’s possible for them to be sustainable; keep an eye out for labels like Organic, MSC or ASC to make the best choices. However, sustainability fluctuates depending on the species and where and how they were caught or farmed. For a sustainable swap, the Marine Conservation Society recommends UK rope-grown mussels instead, which are in peak season between September and April. Grown using low-impact methods, harvested by hand and taking all the food they need from the sea around them, they’re one of the most ocean-friendly seafood choices. Packed with protein and nutrients, mussels can be swapped in for prawns in plenty of recipes, and we have plenty of inspiration for when it comes to cooking these seafood superheroes. Our how-to-cook guides cover preparing and cooking them, while our brilliant chefs give them a starring role in all sorts of dishes, from Abby Lee’s savoury, peppery kam heong mussels to our simple mussels alla puttanesca. There’s also a classic mussels with cider, leeks and chorizo, and mussel fritti – a delicious crispy snack.

Salmon is the most popular fish eaten in the UK, but sustainability varies on which salmon species it is, and how it’s been caught or farmed. Many UK supermarkets sell Atlantic or Pacific salmon, and while there are some environmentally friendly options, it’s another area in which there’s huge variety. For a simple swap, the Marine Conservation Society suggests using UK freshwater farmed rainbow trout instead. A close relative of salmon, it’s similar in texture, with a slightly stronger flavour. It’s widely available in supermarkets and fishmongers, in fillets, whole and smoked, and can be swapped for salmon in most recipes. Our trout guide has all your need-to-knows, and don’t miss our recipe collection, which is bursting with inspiration. Highlights include these stunning trout tartlets by Luke French, as well as this dish of smoked trout with brown butter and rhubarb from Nicholas Balfe.

A pantry staple, most of the tuna we eat in the UK is wild-caught from the ocean and ratings for fisheries range from green to red, influenced by the species (skipjack and albacore tuna being among the most sustainable options) and fishing methods. However, the Marine Conservation Society recommends swapping tuna for anchovies caught in the Bay of Biscay or MSC-certified sardines from Cornwall. They are all oily, fatty fishes full of Omega 3 and other nutrients, which are readily available in tins and jars. Both are a great replacement for tuna in pasta sauces (like in this linguine with tonnato sauce) in particular. Head this way for plenty of anchovy and sardine recipe ideas, as well as more tuna dishes you can use as the base for a recipe. But beware – there are some red-rated options for sardines and anchovies, so always check the Good Fish Guide for the latest advice. 

Although the Good Fish Guide lists wild-caught haddock as a generally sustainable choice, there is a risk of cod being accidentally caught in nets from haddock fisheries as they often swim together. The Marine Conservation Society recommends swapping haddock for the hugely underused saithe – or coley –  from the North Sea. It’s a white fish which is closely related to haddock, but with a stronger flavour and meatier texture. Coley stocks are booming, and the fish, which can often be found frozen, makes a great haddock alternative. As well as being a fantastic addition to a fish pie, it can also be used in a variety of other ways. Stosie Madi serves it crispy and spiced alongside lentil dahl, while we’ve paired it with a rich beurre blanc, fried herbs and mixed herb oil.