Ones to watch: Matt Harris

Ones to watch: Matt Harris

Ones to watch: Matt Harris

by Lauren Fitchett17 April 2024

After stints in the kitchens of neighbourhood gems, Matt Harris swapped restaurants for street food when he founded cult fried chicken brand Other Side Fried. Now, almost ten years on, he’s back in fine dining, heading up south London neighbourhood restaurant Ploussard.

In association with

Follow Square

Ones to watch: Matt Harris

After stints in the kitchens of neighbourhood gems, Matt Harris swapped restaurants for street food when he founded cult fried chicken brand Other Side Fried. Now, almost ten years on, he’s back in fine dining, heading up south London neighbourhood restaurant Ploussard.

View more from this series:

Ones to watch

Lauren is a food writer at Great British Chefs. She joined the team in 2022, having previously been a food editor at regional newspapers and trade magazines.

Lauren is a food writer at Great British Chefs. She joined the team in 2022, having previously been a food editor at regional newspapers and trade magazines. She is based in Norfolk and spends most of her time trying new recipes at home or enjoying the culinary gems of the east of England.

We don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that the street food revolution of the 2000s changed the way we eat. As well as propelling new flavours into the mainstream, it made a fresh take on fast food, inspired by vibrant markets around the world, a permanent fixture in our lives. Chefs, too, had the chance to trial new ideas without costly ties, and today, markets filled with pop-ups can be found in cities across the UK. Though some come and go, others prove their staying power; the likes of Pizza Pilgrims, Kricket, Freak Scene and MEATliquor all began life as food trucks, along with cult brand Other Side Fried. Dreamt up over a pint in 2014 by Matt Harris and Tommy Kempton, the concept was simple: fried chicken with a cheffy twist. 

At the time, Matt had been in the kitchen of Joe Lambert’s beloved Balham institution Lamberts (it closed in 2020 after seventeen years), but felt the itch for something more casual. Other Side Fried delivered just that, and after eight months of splitting his time between it and the restaurant, Matt took the plunge to focus on chicken full-time. At the time, there was space for the duo to grab a foothold in what has since become a hugely crowded market. ‘If you look at it now, the competition is crazy,’ Matt nods. ‘It’s totally oversaturated – we are probably at the peak of it now. At that time, there were only a few places doing fried chicken and it was a really exciting world to be part of.’ Using Matt’s experience in restaurants, the pair set themselves apart by paying attention to detail; they made their own bread and butter pickles, while their smoked honey butter remains a staple ten years on.

The comté madeleine at Ploussard
Tommy Kempton and Matt Harris

Their original touring home – Tommy's car – was soon replaced by a converted ambulance, and the brand took off. The pair visited markets, festivals and events, opening pop-ups in Pop Brixton, Peckham, Camden and Leicester Square, getting to grips with the pace and challenges of cooking on-the-go. ‘I liked meeting different people and rocking up somewhere completely different,’ Matt says. ‘But it is quite stressful – in a professional kitchen you have everything at your disposal, but with street food you have to adjust and adapt.’ In 2019, they opened their first bricks and mortar restaurant in one of Brixton’s refurbished railway arches, where they are still at home today, followed by a second in Clapham Junction in 2022, which has since been replaced by Matt and Tommy’s latest project.

As the Other Side Fried mini-empire ballooned, Matt started to feel a pull back to his more refined roots. He started his cookery career as a teenager at the Park Plaza Hotel in Cardiff while studying music at university, quickly finding a place in the frenetic energy of professional kitchens (he soon swapped visions of a life behind DJ decks for one behind the hobs). After graduating, Matt moved to the capital, starting work with Jesse Dunford Wood at Notting Hill pub The Mall Tavern. ‘That was amazing,’ Matt says. ‘Jesse played with nostalgic British food; it was quite quirky with lots of theatrics, and it was inspiring.’ Stints as head chef at St John’s Hotel (which reopened as lively Soho restaurant One Leicester Street under Tom Harris) and Parlour in Kensal Rise followed, as well as alongside Joe at Lamberts in 2013. He counts his time there as among his most formative culinary experiences. 

‘That was a really, really big influence for me,’ Matt says. ‘I learned a lot about how to run a business and fix problems. I’d watch how Joe handled it all – if something broke, he’d fix it. If someone called in sick, he’d work.’ Those lessons proved particularly useful when Other Side Fried came into being and meant he already had solid entrepreneurial foundations when he embarked on his latest restaurant. ‘It has always been in the back of my head,’ he says. ‘I always wanted to have a nice restaurant and wine bar. Ever since I left cooking to open Other Side Fried, I’ve always loved eating out and I went all over the world eating out and thinking about what I’d want to do.’ 

Dishes at Ploussard
The devilled crab sandwich at Ploussard

In May last year, those plans crystallised into Ploussard, a Parisian-bistro-inspired restaurant and wine bar which opened in Other Side Fried’s second home after a speedy six-month turnaround. ‘The restaurant is super relaxed and intimate,’ he says. ‘I would say it’s a nod to French cooking but in an unpretentious way, with bold flavours – if it says an ingredient on a dish, I think you really have to taste that.’ Its European small plates menu is dotted with dishes like madeleine with comté and cep custard, a savoury snack and their twist on a French onion soup, as well as a devilled crab sandwich with sugar kelp waffles.

Wine is given equal billing; around 85% of the wines at Ploussard – which takes its name from the French red grape wine varietal – are French, and there’s a mix of natural, low-intervention and field blend bottles from small producers. With its first anniversary on the horizon and Other Side Fried still going strong, the pair certainly have enough to contend with, but Matt has one eye on future plans, which might see a pub added to their empire. After all, they appear to have stumbled on a winning formula. ‘We’re a good team – Tommy is really supportive of what I do,’ Matt says. ‘If I have an idea, he lets me get on with it and vice versa. We're just really supportive of each other.’ Team work, as they say, really does make the dream work...