Though the programme-makers like to tease viewers by not identifying the veteran judge until they walk through the kitchen doors, this week’s virtually gave it away on the corridor with his leather-clad swagger and studded boots. The shock of platinum hair (with streaks of unicorn lilac) may have taken our three North West hopefuls aback, but it was no surprise for us to see the unmistakable presence of Michael O’Hare.
Last year’s regional champion, Ellis Barry, returns to defend his title. Chef patron of The Marram Grass in Anglesey and a new dad too, he says he’s ‘in it to win it for baby Albert’.
Ellis slightly confused Michael O’Hare on Monday by calling his starter ‘Wyau Ynys Mon’, which he translated as ‘Anglesey Eggs’, then added to our confusion by renaming the dish ‘From the Coal Came a Good Egg’. Dedicated to Nye Bevan and ‘reimagining a traditional Welsh breakfast’, Ellis serves cylindrical potato tuiles of potato and leek ragout, leek and Hafod cheese Welsh cakes, smoked potato mousse and a poached egg. With a generous grating of white truffle and shards of sharp Cheddar and charcoal, Ellis presents his dish in a vintage first aid box filled with coal. Guest judge, Dr Jake Dunning MBE likes the nostalgic presentation and is soon a big fan of the food too. Oliver calls it ‘delicious’ and Matthew says it’s ‘as satisfying as it is sexy’.
Which reminds me, the pectorally-blessed blond waiter (he who confuses viewers by often being at the front of the line in the corridor, then the last to enter the room), well, he’s sporting a new pair of specs. (There’s a limerick in there somewhere – ‘There was a blond waiter with pecs…’) As for the specs? Hmm… the jury’s still out.