Good news – if a chef from Northern Ireland makes it through to the banquet, nobody’s stopping for chips on the way home. Their portions are generous to say the least.
Other things we learned this week – these chefs don’t like to be rushed and they’re happy to lend each other a helping hand. A slightly laid back, cooperative approach to the competition clearly infuriated the heat’s veteran, Daniel Clifford. To be fair, it doesn’t take much to raise his hackles. Described by Andi Oliver as ‘the British bulldog of fine dining’ he sniffed out any opportunity to bark or bite.
In one of the tightest heats ever, Wednesday’s elimination came down to canapés and Thursday’s was decided on pre-desserts, leaving newcomers Phelim O’Hagan from Browns Bonds Hill in Londonderry and Gemma Austin from Alexander’s, Holywood clinging on to compete for the judges.
Just missing out on a trip to the judging chamber was another new face, Andy Scollick from The Boat House in Bangor. Andy’s main course was inspired by one served as the final meal on the Titanic, but the ship made its ominous presence felt across several menus. Returning chef Paul Cunningham from Brunel’s, County Down also saw his hopes run aground, despite an impressive fish course that re-enacted the SS Great Britain’s fateful stranding in Dundrum Bay.
Celebrated designer, Thomas Heatherwick (of London bus and Olympic cauldron fame) would have loved Paul’s ship. He joins regulars Oliver, Rachel and Matthew in the judging chamber in time for canapés.
Phelim’s canapé ‘Nature’s Aphrodisiac’ is a Carlingford oyster, topped with diced fennel salami and watermelon and served in a Viagra box. Celebrating aviator, Lilian Bland, Gemma welcomes truffle espuma, Irish bacon and Kilcreen cheddar on board a potato skin. The judges agree that Gemma’s is ‘very satisfying’ and offers ‘proper comfort’ but Thomas admits that Phelim’s is the one he’ll remember.
Gemma’s starter ‘Support Your Local’ is inspired by a recent innovation to prevent beer wastage in pubs. Diners are unlikely to waste away either, despite Gemma’s assurance that she’s now serving a smaller portion. She plates boxty – a traditional potato cake, topped with a poached egg and truffle hollandaise alongside a ham hock fritter with piccalilli. Matthew calls it ‘a dish of delights’ but all agree with Rachel’s assessment - ‘There’s a lot on the plate to get through’.
Phelim starts with a dish ominously (but familiarly) inspired by one served as the final meal on the Titanic. Scallop mousse, shaped like a tiny liner, floats in crystal clear oxtail consommé alongside roasted scallops and celeriac. He tops with a cracker of beef and scallop tartare and pickled cucumber. Thomas praises its bento-box-style brilliance and Matthew agrees ‘it’s a really clever piece of cooking’.