Hay-smoked pork kidneys with savora mash

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Savora is a spicy mustard often used in French cuisine. In this Pascal Aussignac recipe, it serves to enliven a mash and complement earthy pig's kidneys. A mouli or ricer is not essential for this pig's kidneys recipe - a regular masher will do - but it will ensure the potato mash is smooth and creamy in texture.

First published in 2015
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Hay-smoked kidney's

Savora mash



  • Mouli
  • Fine strainer


Start by preparing the hay. If it's wet or damp, place into an oven set to a low temperature until completely dry. Once dry, place into a large saucepan
  • 100g of fresh hay
Light the hay on fire and stand away from the flame. After all the hay is burnt, cover with a lid to extinguish the flames and then cover with water. Allow to slowly simmer for 10 minutes
Pass the smoky hay-infused water through a fine strainer and pour into a smaller saucepan. Bring to the boil, remove from the heat and add the kidney's. Leave the kidneys in the stock until cool. This will gently poach them, creating a smooth texture
Place the potatoes into a pan filled with cold water and gently boil for 20–30 minutes. Once cooked, but still firm and hot, put them through the vegetable mill (mouli) or ricer
Once the potatoes are finely mashed, add the savora, diced butter (one by one - so they have time to melt) and the milk to finish. Keep stirring all the time. Taste and season if needed
For the sauce, add the double cream, mustard, vermouth, garlic, salt and pepper into a small saucepan. Bring to the boil for 5 minutes and set aside
Remove the kidneys from the water and dry with absorbent kitchen towel. Heat a small amount of butter in a frying pan. Gently pan-fry the kidneys until golden on both sides
To serve, slice the kidneys into small portions and plate with the savora mash. Drizzle with the sauce and serve immmediately
First published in 2015

Pascal Aussignac left France with business partner Vincent Labeyrie to champion 'la cuisine de Gascogne' at his restaurant, Club Gascon, in 1998.

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