Cod wrapped in squash with enoki and shallot ragù and smoked fish bone sauce

  • medium
  • 6-8
  • 4 hours plus time for the mint oil to separate overnight

This remarkable cod dish is wrapped in a blanched sheet of butternut squash, cut with a Japanese rotating mandolin, and then served on a enoki mushroom ragù. It's served with a side of rich, smoked fish bone sauce.

First published in 2024




  • cod loin, allow for 120g cod per person, or 50–60g for a tasting menu portion

Tarragon oil

Smoked bone sauce

Black tuile

Cod brine

Salmon mousse

Crab mix

Cod roll

Enoki mushroom and shallot ragù

Turnip Purée

Pickled Turnip


  • Japanese turning slicer
  • Vacuum bag and machine
  • Parisian scoop / melon baller
  • Blow torch
  • seaweed-shaped silicone mold



Begin by blanching the tarragon for the herb oil, and then transferring it to iced water. Once cool, squeeze out as much water as you can. Add the blanched herbs to a Thermomix along with all the remaining tarragon oil ingredients except the salt. Blend and heat to 80°C


Once at temperature, blend in the salt and pass the oil through a muslin cloth


Pour the oil into a sealed piping bag and let it hang overnight so that the cloudy substances settle at the bottom of the point. The next day, get rid of the solids and pour off the oil


Grill the fish bones over charcoal until slightly smoky

  • 500g of fish bones

Add the bones to the chicken stock, then bring to the boil and cook for 20 minutes

  • 500g of chicken stock

Strain off the bones and then add the wine, vinegar, shallots, thyme, carom seeds, salt and sugar to the infused chicken stock


Place the stock back on the heat and cook until it has reduced to around 500ml


Strain the aromatics from the reduced stock, and then add the double cream and shiro dashi


Emulsify in the smoked butter with a hand blender


Check the seasoning and adjust to taste


Weigh the sauce, and add 0.8% by final weight of lecithin. Use a stick blender to blend in the lecithin, then strain once again and rest for at least 15 minutes

  • soya lecithin, as needed

Mix all the ingredients for the black tuile, and then transfer to a fridge to chill


Mix all the ingredients for the cod brine, stirring until the sugar and salt has dissolved. Add the cod and set it aside to brine for 30 minutes

  • 200g of salt
  • 200g of cane sugar
  • 1kg water
  • cod loin, allow for 120g cod per person, or 50–60g for a tasting menu portion

Put the bowl and blade of the food processor in the freezer to chill thoroughly


Once chilled, put the blade back in and add all the ingredients for the salmon mousse except for the cream


Blend to a smooth paste, then drizzle in the cream while the motor is still running

  • 400g of double cream

Pass the salmon mousse through a sieve


Mix all of the ingredients for the crab mix with 200g salmon mousse


Preheat the oven to 170°C


Spread the chilled tuile mix on the seaweed mould


Bake for 4–6 minutes, then set aside. Depending on the number of moulds you have, you may need to repeat. You need one seaweed tuile per serving


Cut the butternut squash in half around the middle, setting aside the bottom half with the seeds


Peel the squash, and then use a Japanese sheeting peeler to get long, thin sheets of squash


Blanch the butternut squash sheets in salted water for 30 seconds, then chill them in ice water. Once cool, pat dry and set aside


Dust the one side of the cod loin with meat glue – this will stop the fish flaking

  • meat glue, for dusting

Spread a layer of crab mix over the meat glue


Wrap the loin in the sheet of blanched butternut squash, and then wrap the cod in cling film. Tighten the ends of the cling film to secure everything in place, but try to keep the cod as flat as possible 


Steam the cod in a steam oven at 95°C until the core temperature reaches 40°C


Once at temperature, cool the cod in an ice bath, and keep in the fridge until ready to serve


For the ragù, sweat the shallot and thyme in the butter with a pinch of salt


Deglaze the pan with vinegar and then add the chicken stock

  • 50g of dashi vinegar
  • 200g of chicken stock

Cook until the stock has almost completely evaporated, then add the double cream and warm up to emulsify. Set aside

  • 10g of double cream

For the turnip purée, sweat down the shallots, thyme and turnip with a pinch of salt in the butter


Meanwhile, reduce the dashi vinegar in a separate pan until it’s just a glaze
Add the double cream and a touch of water, and cook slowly until the turnip is completely broken down and soft

  • 200g of dashi vinegar
  • 200g of double cream, simmered until reduced by half

Add the dashi vinegar glaze and blend in a Thermomix, then add a squeeze lemon juice and shiro dashi


Heat the mixture to 60°C, then whisk in a pinch of xanthan gum to stabilise the mixture. It's thick enough when no moisture leaks out of the sauce when spooned onto a plate. Adjust the seasoning as required

  • 1 pinch of xanthan gum, or as needed to thicken

Use a melon baller to scoop out small balls of turnip, about 5 small balls per person for an à la carte serving, or 3 for a tasting menu portion


Blanch the turnip balls until just cooked in salted water


Compress the turnip balls three times in lemon juice 


Blow torch the turnip balls to give them some colour


Warm all the ingredients for the pickling liquid, stirring until the sugar is dissolved

  • 150g of rice wine vinegar
  • 75g of mirin
  • 75g of cane sugar

Compress the turnip three times again, but this time in the pickling liquid


Place the turnip balls in the tarragon oil to marinate before service


When ready to serve, portion the cod into 5 x 3 cm pieces


Warm the cod in duck fat at 47°C for about 20 minutes, or until the interior temperature of the cod reaches 47°C


Warm the smoked bone sauce and then foam it with a hand blender


Add the enoki mushrooms to the ragù and stir gently, then add the scallop roe powder. Season with lemon juice and salt and finish with the chopped chives and tarragon


To serve, pipe a ring of turnip purée on the plate – in the restaurant they use a a lazy Susan to get a neat circle


Spoon the ragù into the border of the purée, and then place the turnip balls in the centre


Top the turnip with the fish, and then garnish with the tuile. Pipe small dots of turnip purée onto the tuile, and top each dot with some coriander cress


Serve with a spoonful of the foamed sauce on the side

One of the very few chefs to win both the Roux scholarship and National Chef of the Year, Hrishikesh Desai’s distinct style of cookery, blending classical technique with spicing that harks back to his Indian heritage, has seen him win Michelin stars at multiple restaurants. In his current position as chef patron at Farlam Hall, he’s cemented himself as one of the biggest talents of the North West’s food scene.

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