Jack Croft and Will Murray

Jack Croft and Will Murray

‘The initial concept for Fallow was a bit more high-end at first,’ explains Will, ‘but the lockdown really moulded us. We started doing takeaways to stay afloat and began doing some more accessible stuff like burgers and corn ribs. The people who sustained us through the lockdown were mainly builders and contractors and when we eventually reopened, we didn’t want to turn our backs on these customers, so we just thought we’d start to include these more accessible dishes. We liked the idea that someone could come in a few times a week and try something different, and that’s how this larger, more casual menu came about. Covid massively defined us as a business.’

Following its reopening post-lockdown, Fallow fast became a hit, with tables at the Heddon Street site booking up weeks in advance and Will and Jack’s cooking being recognised with a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. The pair of dynamic chefs quickly outgrew the space and in late 2021 moved Fallow to a much larger, permanent site in St James. There they now serve an even broader menu of both accessible and slightly more daring dishes, while continuing to win plaudits for their bold cookery. 

At the heart of Will and Jack’s ethos in the kitchen at Fallow however, is their commitment to sustainability, championing less commonly used parts of both animals and vegetables on their menu, and even trying to use waste and by-products as much as possible. ‘It was never really intended to be a theme or anything,’ says Jack, ‘we just thrive off trying to use ingredients that no one else can, to the point where we’ll sometimes get laughed at by suppliers. I just love the idea of taking these high-end recipes and techniques, which we know work, and then applying them to things that are essentially waste products like lamb’s tongue and whey.’

This zero-waste approach has led to a number of unusual signature dishes appearing on the menu at Fallow, most notably their cod’s head with sriracha butter – a dish which grew from a conversation with their fish supplier. ‘We literally just asked them what was going in the bin that day,’ Will explains, ‘they gave us some cods’ heads, so we put them on the menu and the feedback was amazing. A few years on, we’re now taking the lion’s share of the North Sea cods’ heads coming into Billingsgate fish market.’

It's this willingness to get the most out of unlikely ingredients, combined with their years of experience working in high-end kitchens that has led to such success for Will and Jack. At Fallow, they continue to demonstrate that you don’t always need to use the most glamourous ingredients to create accessible dishes that taste amazing, and that’s what makes them such forward-thinking chefs.