Venison with Kampot pepper sauce and celeriac and horseradish purée

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This advanced venison dish from Lorna McNee begins with a venison farce, which is then rolled into a ballotine and steamed in a steam oven. The farce is served with a fragrant Kampot pepper sauce and poached quince, as well as a pickled walnut gel and two separate herb oils.

First published in 2024

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Spiced quince

Venison farce

Celeriac and horseradish purée

Pickled walnut gel

Chive oil

Parsley oil

Kampot pepper sauce

Equipment

  • Steam oven
  • Twine
  • Thermomix or blender
  • Muslin cloth
  • Cold-smoker

Method

1

To make the spiced quince, first toast the peppercorns and cinnamon in a dry pan

2

Add the lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar and water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and let infuse for 1 hour

3

Add the whole peeled quinces to the pot and poach slowly until tender under a cartouche

4

Once cooked, set aside to cool and then refrigerate overnight in the syrup 

5

The next day, use a small Parisienne scoop (melon baller) to make small quince balls and reserve in the liquor

6

Sweat off the onions and garlic for the farce with salt in a high-sided saucepan

7

Add in the brandy, then remove from the heat and very carefully flambé and reduce to a syrup. Make sure to use a long lighter when flambéing, and have a pan lid nearby to cover the pan if the flames are getting too high. Decant the alcohol out into a ladle first rather than pouring straight from the bottle – and make sure not to flambé underneath a hood on the stove!

8

Add in the Madeira, flambé again and reduce to a syrup

  • 125g of Madeira
9

Add in the port and reduce to almost nothing then place in the fridge to cool

10

Cold smoke the pork fat for 30 minutes in a Bradley smoker

  • 250g of pork fat
11

Season the livers well with flaky salt and sear hard in a pan. Put in fridge to cool

12

Mince the venison, smoked pork fat and cold livers

13

Place in a bowl and mix in the onions, pork mince and the eggs

14

Roll into a ballotine, then steam at 62°C for 20 minutes. Chill and then slice into rounds, ready to be caramelised before serving

15

Bring the milk to a simmer with the celeriac, and cook until the celeriac is soft

  • 500ml of whole milk
  • 1 celeriac, peeled and diced
16

Pass off the celeriac and then blend in the Thermomix or high-powered blender

17

Add butter, horseradish and lemon juice to the Thermomix whilst blending. Add some of the milk if needed to create a glossy purée

18

Put all the ingredients for the walnut gel into the Thermomix and blend until it reaches 100°C. Alternatively, bring the mixture to 100°C in a pan and then blend until smooth

19

Pour into a container and leave until set

20

Once set, blend until it forms a fluid gel then pass until smooth 

21

For the chive oil, blend all the ingredients together in the Thermomix at 70°C for 7 minutes. Alternatively, blend in a high-speed blender until smooth

22

Pass through muslin and reserve the oil, discarding the solids

23

For the parsley oil, blend all the ingredients together in the Thermos at 70°C for 7 minutes. Alternatively, blend in a high-speed blender until smooth

24

Pass through muslin and reserve the oil, discarding the solids

25

To make the Kampot pepper sauce, put a heavy-based pan on a medium-high heat and add a dash of vegetable oil

26

Sear the venison trimmings in the pan with some salt

27

Once you begin to see the venison caramelise in the pan, add the vegetables and cook until they just begin to colour

28

Deglaze the pan with brandy and skim. Reduce the brandy to a syrup

29

Add the red wine and skim. Reduce this by half

30

Add in the veal stock and bring up to a simmer

  • 250g of reduced veal stock
31

Add in 10 of the kampot peppercorns and let infuse, then pass the sauce through muslin

32

To plate, first preheat the oven to 180°C

33

Sear the venison loin in an ovenproof pan on all sides for around 2 minutes and then add a good amount of butter. Spoon the foaming butter over the loom for a further minute

34

Add garlic, thyme and rosemary to the pan to taste and then transfer to the oven for 2 minutes. Rest for 6 minutes, then carve pink

35

Put a dot of the celeriac puree on the bottom of the plate. Top this with a small amount of the pickled walnut gel and six balls of poached quince

36

Caramelise the venison farce and roast a piece of foie gras in a pan and place on top, alongside some wilted swiss chard leaf and celeriac celeriac purée

37

Drizzle some chive oil and some parsley oil over the top of the Swiss chard

38

Warm up the Kampot pepper sauce and finish with finely chopped parsley and remaining crushed Kampot pepper

39

Add the venison loin to the plate and pour the Kampot pepper sauce over the top

A protégé of the late Andrew Fairlie and now one of the chefs at the forefront of Scotland’s fine dining scene, Lorna McNee’s refined style of cookery is all about celebrating her country’s incredible natural larder through carefully constructed dishes. This has seen her become the only female chef in Scotland to currently hold a Michelin star.

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