Turn the classic steak tartare accompaniment (toast or crisps) on its head and showcase chips instead. Chef James Cochran coats chips in hot wagyu fat and tangy, spicy Tajín. The tartare dressing is a beautiful mixture of the usual suspects – gherkins, Dijon and shallots – with an electric mix of additional seasonings from Japanese shichimi tōgarashi spice mix, Korean gochujang, Tabasco and an oyster emulsion for umami richness.
For the oyster emulsion, shuck the oysters and place the meat and their juice into a bowl. Transfer the oyster meat to a blender, then strain in the juice through a small fine mesh sieve. Add the lemon juice and a pinch of salt and blend for 1 minute. With the motor still running, add the vegetable oil in a thin, steady stream to emulsify. Check the seasoning then transfer to a piping bag and set aside in the fridge until needed (this will make more than you need)
For the tartare, first make the dressing. Mix all the ingredients together. Taste, check the seasoning and set aside
Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pan over a medium-high heat, or preheat a deep-fat fryer to 180°C. Set up a tray lined with kitchen paper for draining. Deep-fry the chips for 3-5 minutes, until golden and cooked through, then drain on the kitchen paper
Meanwhile, mix the diced steak with the dressing to fully coat, then transfer to serving plates. Garnish the tartare with dots of the oyster emulsion, picked soft herbs and chive flowers
Melt a little wagyu fat in a small pan, then toss with the hot chips. Season with Tajín and serve with the tartare
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