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Partridge with burnt apple purée, mushrooms, squash and an Albufera cream sauce

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Adam Smith celebrates the shift of summer into autumn in his robust and earthy dish of wild mushrooms, crown prince squash, apples, butter-poached partridge and truffle. The mushrooms are turned into a smooth purée, apples are blackened on the grill and blended until smooth and the mighty crown prince squash is both pickled and blanched for garnish. Adam presents the dish with a partridge consommé and a duck and partridge liver Albufera cream sauce (a velouté traditionally enriched with foie gras). Smith & Brock supply restaurants like Adam’s in Coworth Park with not only the finest fruit and vegetables from the UK and Europe, but game meats and other fine foods too.

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

TARRAGON OIL

POACHED PARTRIDGE

PARTRIDGE CONSOMMÉ BASE

BURNT APPLE PURÉE

  • 6 apples, ideally an English variety
  • 200ml of apple juice
  • 75ml of black apple vinegar
  • caster sugar, for seasoning

PICKLED SQUASH

  • 100g of crown prince squash, peeled, finely sliced and cut into 2cm discs
  • 18g of olive oil
  • 9g of chardonnay vinegar
  • 3g of salt
  • 2g of caster sugar

BLANCHED SQUASH

CEP PURÉE

  • 600g of ceps, finely sliced
  • 300g of frozen ceps, defrosted and finely sliced
  • 200g of salted butter
  • 2 shallots, finely sliced
  • 8 garlic cloves, finely sliced
  • 100ml of sherry vinegar
  • 250g of Madeira
  • 750ml of double cream
  • 150ml of whole milk
  • vegetable oil, for cooking

CONSOMMÉ RAFT

ALBUFERA CREAM SAUCE

  • 1kg chicken wings, ideally chopped into smaller pieces
  • 150g of unsalted butter
  • 2 garlic bulbs, halved
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 5g of thyme
  • 150g of shallots, sliced
  • 400g of button mushrooms, sliced
  • 100ml of sweet sherry vinegar
  • 400ml of vin jaune
  • 2l white chicken stock
  • 1l double cream
  • 200g of duck liver, sinew, veins and discolouration trimmed
  • 100g partridge liver, sinew, veins and discolouration trimmed
  • vegetable oil, for sautéing

SAUTÉED GIROLLES

TO SERVE

Equipment

  • Temperature probe
  • Piping bags
  • Squeezy bottle
  • Charcoal barbecue or grill
  • Vacuum bag and machine
  • mincer
  • Siphon bottle or cream whipper
  • 2 siphon cartridges
  • Sous vide or water bath 2
  • 2cm round cutter

Method

1

Start the tarragon oil the day before you want to serve the dish. Place the tarragon and oil in a food processor and blitz until the temperature of the oil reaches 62°C. Strain through a sieve lined with two muslin cloths, leaving the oil to drip through. Transfer to a piping bag and hang in the fridge overnight to allow any water to separate in the tip of the piping bag

2

The next day, snip the end of the piping bag and drain any water, then transfer the tarragon oil into a squeezy bottle and set aside

3

For the partridge consommé base, first butcher the partridge as described. Set the crowns aside

  • 4 partridges, (legs, carcasses, wishbones and trim removed and reserved, to leave the partridge breasts on the crown only)
4

Heat a splash of vegetable oil in a large heavy-based saucepan. Add all of the chicken wings, along with the reserved partridge legs and carcasses, and sear until deep golden brown and caramelised

5

Add the garlic bulb halves cut-side down and sear until golden brown, adding a little more oil, if needed, then add the aromats, spices and shallots and cook until golden

6

Add in the button mushrooms and deglaze with the vin jaune. Reduce this by half, then add in the brown chicken stock and simmer for 45 minutes, skimming regularly – don’t let it boil. Pass the stock through a fine mesh sieve and leave to cool. Chill in the fridge

7

For the burnt apple purée, preheat a charcoal grill or barbecue for direct grilling

8

Place the whole apples onto the hot grill and cook until well charred and totally soft

  • 6 apples, ideally an English variety
9

Once cool enough to handle, peel away and discard the blacked skins, roughly chop and transfer the flesh to a blender with the apple juice and vinegar. Blend until smooth, season with salt and sugar and transfer into a squeezy bottle. Set aside – this is served room temperature

  • 200ml of apple juice
  • 75ml of black apple vinegar
  • caster sugar, for seasoning
10

For the pickled crown prince squash, mix all the ingredients together and transfer into a vacuum bag. Seal under full vacuum and set aside for 10 minutes, then remove and transfer to an airtight container until needed

  • 100g of crown prince squash, peeled, finely sliced and cut into 2cm discs
  • 18g of olive oil
  • 9g of chardonnay vinegar
  • 3g of salt
  • 2g of caster sugar
11

For the blanched squash, blanch the diced squash in boiling salted water until tender, then remove with a slotted spoon into a bowl of iced water. Once cool, pat dry and set aside in an airtight container until needed

12

For the cep purée, heat a splash of vegetable oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium-high heat. Fry the mushrooms until beginning to caramelise, then add in the butter, shallots and garlic. Cook until everything is golden brown then strain through a sieve to strain out any excess butter

13

Return the mixture to the pan and, once hot, deglaze with the sherry vinegar. Add the Madeira and reduce to a glaze

  • 100ml of sherry vinegar
  • 250g of Madeira
14

Add the cream and milk and simmer for 5-7 minutes, then strain through a sieve and transfer the solids to a food processor and the liquid to a jug. Blitz the mixture until smooth, adding the liquid back in until you have reached a thick purée consistency. Season to taste and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Cover the surface with cling film to stop it forming a skin and leave to cool. Chill in the fridge until needed

  • 750ml of double cream
  • 150ml of whole milk
15

Make a raft for clarifying the stock. Place all the ingredients (except the egg whites) and 200g of the reserved partridge trim and flesh through a fine mincer

16

Transfer into a large bowl and season well with salt. Mix in the egg whites

17

Transfer the raft into a cold pan and cover in the chilled stock. Place on a medium heat and bring up to simmer, stirring every 2-3 minutes or so to prevent the raft from catching on the bottom of the pan. Once the raft starts to set and form be careful not to break it

18

Simmer without stirring for 20 minutes, making sure to prevent it from boiling. Remove from the heat and gently strain the stock through muslin cloth 1 ladle at a time, taking care not to disturb the raft (otherwise you will make the crystal clear consommé cloudy again). Cool the consommé and store in the fridge until needed

19

For the Albufera cream sauce, heat a splash of vegetable oil in a large saucepan. Sauté the chicken wings until golden brown, then add in the butter, garlic, bay and thyme. Sauté until the garlic is golden, then add the shallots and sauté until golden

20

Add about a third of the mushrooms, sauté briefly, then deglaze with the vinegar. Add the wine and reduce by three-quarters

21

Add in the chicken stock, a pinch of salt and another third of the button mushrooms. Reduce the chicken stock by half, then add in the double cream and remaining mushrooms. Simmer for 15 minutes then season to taste with salt. Pass the sauce through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids and transfer to a blender

22

Meanwhile, fry the livers for 3-4 minutes on each side – they should be nicely golden on the outside and lightly pink in the centre – avoid cooking them through completely otherwise the sauce will be grainy

  • 200g of duck liver, sinew, veins and discolouration trimmed
  • 100g partridge liver, sinew, veins and discolouration trimmed
23

Transfer the livers to the blender along with the sauce and blend until smooth (doing this whilst the livers are still warm ensures the sauce is velvety and smooth). Strain through a fine mesh sieve again and season to taste

24

Place 300g of the sauce into a large siphon gun and charge with 2 gas canisters. Shake well then transfer to a water bath set to 65°C

25

For the partridge crowns, preheat the brown butter in a water bath or sous vide immersion circulator set to 60°C

26

Preheat a large heavy-based pan and season the partridge crowns well with salt and pepper. Drizzle in a little vegetable oil, and once hot, sear the partridge crowns all over until golden brown. Add the butter, garlic and thyme and once the butter is foaming baste the crowns

27

Submerge the crowns in the butter bath and cook until the breasts are 50°C (around 20 minutes), then remove and allow to rest

28

When you are ready to serve, set up a charcoal grill or barbecue for direct grilling

29

For the sautéed girolle mushrooms, preheat a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Drizzle in a little vegetable oil, then sauté until starting to soften and caramelise. Add the butter and baste, then season lightly and remove to drain on kitchen paper

30

Place the rested partridge crowns on the grill to achieve a light, even char all over, turning regularly. Remove and rest for 2 minutes

31

Reheat the cep purée. Gently reheat the consommé and transfer into a warmed jug

32

In a small pan, reheat the blanched squash with the preserved truffle, some chopped tarragon leaves, wild garlic capers and enough consomme to coat to vegetables

33

Carve the partridge breasts from the bone

34

To plate, place a spoonful of the cep puree in the centre of a bowl and arrange the pickled squash, cooked squash, wild garlic capers and sautéed girolles around it. Top with the partridge breast and dot over the apple puree. Arrange the sliced raw girolles and truffle discs on top, along with the whole tarragon leaves. Drizzle tarragon oil around the edge

35

To serve, pour the consommé over the vegetables, shake and dispense some of the hot sauce into a small pan or bowl to serve alongside

During his time working under John Williams at The Ritz for almost ten years, Adam Smith fell in love with the complexities of classical cookery. Now a Roux Scholar and executive chef at the Michelin-starred Woven by Adam Smith, at stunning hotel Coworth Park, he puts his own spin on classic combinations that showcase the pinnacle of flavour, technique and plating.

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