Wild mushrooms come in a whole range of colours, shapes and sizes, from the needle-like enoki to the enormous puffball. They also tend to have more than one name - ceps are also known as porcini, chanterelles are known as girolles. Whatever their shape or name, they add a delicate fragrance, flavour and interesting texture to whichever recipes they are used in and are a tasty way to celebrate the arrival of autumn.

Wild mushrooms generally have quite a mild, earthy taste, although some varieties such as maitake can have a more pronounced flavour. However, all species of wild mushrooms share a sponge-like ability to soak up the flavour of everything around them.

The term ‘wild’ mushrooms is often something of a misnomer. Many species of wild mushrooms can now be commercially cultivated, such as shiitake, oyster, enoki and maitake (hen-of-the-woods). These are grown on substrate blocks inoculated with mushroom mycelium, which can be made from everything from straw to wood shavings to sawdust. Truly wild mushroom species - which can’t be commercially cultivated - include porcini, morels and chicken-of-the-woods.

However, whether cultivated or harvested, wild mushrooms are well worth getting familiar with. They are delicious in broths - such as the one used in Joo Won’s kalguksu - and noodle soups like Larkin Cen’s hot and sour dashi ramen. Wild mushrooms are often touted as being excellent in vegetarian meals, due to their meaty texture, but they also complement meaty dishes well, and are delicious served alongside black pudding and bacon.