In China, barbecue (known in Cantonese as siu mei) is big. Often found sizzling away in the streets of its biggest cities or in restaurants dedicated to the art of cooking over fire, it’s a universally loved way of cooking meat. In the UK, the Chinatowns of London and Manchester are home to glass-fronted shops and restaurants with golden ducks and red pork on display, often accompanied by an aroma so enticing, it attracts passers-by like moths to a flame.
As people in the UK starts to become more and more aware of the different regional cuisines found across China, we’re also starting to break down the catchall term of ‘Chinese barbecue’ and seeking out specific dishes, techniques and styles from across the vast country. The barbecue you find in Cantonese restaurants will differ from what’s served in the north of the country, while the western part of China is home to a large Muslim population, which means lots of spiced lamb. While you’d struggle to find barbecued starfish (a popular dish in Shandong, a coastal region in east China home to a famous cuisine which has influenced much of northern China) or the grilled freshwater fish beloved in Heilongjiang (a province which borders Russia in the northeast of the country, taking its name from the Heilong River which separates the two nations), restaurants specialising in the food of Sichuan, Xinjiang and Hunan are beginning to join the throngs of Cantonese establishments in the UK.
Writing about regional Chinese food – be it barbecue or otherwise – is always tough, as there are always too many variations, local specialities and unknown delicacies to fit into one article. But for a crash course in the country’s most popular dishes and styles of cooking, read on and get a little insight into what makes Chinese barbecue so delicious.