
You’ll often see the term ‘ghee roast’ mentioned in a lot of southern Indian dishes, which refers to a cooking technique involving ingredients marinated in bold, thick spice pastes and then slow-cooked in heaps of ghee to bring out all the flavours. This is a lighter, fresher take on the classic ‘potato roast’ you’d often find in many homes across southern India. Chef Sriram Aylur uses seasonal salsify at his Michelin-starred restaurant Quilon, coating them in a light batter and deep-frying until crisp. They’re then tossed in a thick, aromatic masala which clings to each piece to create an incredible starter or side that’s all about flavour and crunch.
To make the podi, toast all the ingredients separately in a dry frying pan until fragrant, then transfer to a spice grinder and blitz to a coarse powder. You’ll only need 10g for this recipe but the rest will keep for up to 3 months in an airtight container
For the salsify, prepare a large bowl of cold water mixed with a splash of vinegar (this prevents discolouration). Peel a stick of salsify, then halve it lengthways and chop into bite-sized chunks. Add to a bowl and repeat with the remaining salsify
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Add the turmeric and a pinch of salt, then the salsify. Cook until tender – about 10 minutes – then drain and leave to steam-dry
Combine the cornflour, chilli powder and a pinch of salt, then sprinkle in just enough water to create a batter – roughly the consistency of thick double cream. Set aside
Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pan over a medium-high heat, or preheat a deep-fat fryer to 180°C (to fry the salsify later)
To make the masala, heat the oil in a deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the mustard seeds, curry leaves and green chilli. Cook for a few minutes until the mustard seeds crackle, then add the onion and continue to sauté until softened
Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring regularly, until they soften and break down. Add splashes of water if the mixture starts to catch
Meanwhile, toss the cooled salsify in the batter, ensuring each piece is lightly coated. Carefully transfer to the hot oil and deep-fry for 5 minutes, or until deeply crisp. Drain on kitchen paper
Add the chilli, coriander and turmeric to the masala and continue to cook until the oil separates. Tip in the fried salsify and toss to coat, sprinkling in the 10g of gunpowder podi. The sauce should be very dry and cling to the salsify
Divide between bowls and serve immediately
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