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The rich, smoky, creamy velouté in this recipe is a knockout in itself, but when served with delicate little toast soldiers draped with slivers of smoked eel and a vibrant lovage mayonnaise, it becomes a perfect example of why Phil Howard's Elystan Street is such a beloved restaurant. You could buy ready-made smoked mackerel if you don't have a stovetop smoker at home, but ensure it is the very best quality to do the velouté justice.
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