• 4
  • 2 hours plus time for the ice cream to set overnight, and for the BAO to prove
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These fried Horlicks ice cream bao are an utterly delicious Taiwanese ice cream sandwich. Toasty, malted milk-flavoured ice cream is sandwiched between a crunchy and fluffy deep-fried bao. The round bao dough recipe makes 20 bao, but you will only need 4 for this recipe. Any leftover bao can be steamed on a medium-high heat for 15 minutes or deep-fried, and then stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 5 days or they can be frozen for up to 1 month.

This recipe is taken from BAO by Erchen Chang, Shing Tat Chung and Wai Ting Chung (Phaidon, £29.95). Photography courtesy of BAO.

First published in 2023

The BAO team say: 'Food has a magical ability to transport you back to certain points in your life. I love those nostalgic flavours that seem to hold within them a special memory of a time and a place. The malted milk drink Horlicks seems to be connected to deep-rooted sensory memories for lots of people both in the UK and Asia. The time and place of those memories might be worlds apart but they are united by this creamy, malty flavour. For me, it takes me back to a glorified, worry-free childhood moment in which my euphoria is encompassed in a warm cup of malty goodness. This recipe is inspired by the deep-fried yin si juan (a style of bread roll) that you find at most fried chicken stalls across Taiwan. In our dish, the pure, sweet indulgence of Horlicks ice cream is sandwiched between hot, freshly fried bao.'

Round Bao: The holy grail recipe – a humble product with a humble history. I’m inspired by the craftspeople who push to perfection a single product over the course of their careers, becoming specialists of one form. Bao is the dish that represents that specialism to us, in which our role is to keep developing and improving what Bao means to us. This recipe is only one form that is ever morphing and adapting to new circumstances and new developments. Our baos are made using the tangzhong technique. Tangzhong is an Asian culinary technique that helps dough absorb more liquid and retain moisture, resulting in a softer fluffier bread. All you need to do is cook a portion of flour and water into a thick consistency, similar to a roux. The baos can be frozen in batches for later use, or, for those who want to skip making their own baos altogether, we sell our Gua baos on our online shop

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Horlicks ice cream

  • 250ml of double cream
  • 10g of Horlicks
  • 150ml of milk
  • 60g of caster sugar
  • 3 egg yolks

Tangzhong

  • 100g of plain flour
  • 500ml of filtered water, cold

BAO dough

  • 420g of plain flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 90g of caster sugar
  • 40g of milk powder
  • 2.5g of fast-action dried yeast
  • 5g of baking powder
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 80ml of milk, at room temperature
  • 80ml of water, at room temperature
  • 10ml of vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing

For deep-fried BAO

  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Method

1

Make the ice cream at least a day in advance. Combine the cream and malted milk powder in a saucepan and heat gently over a low heat

  • 250ml of double cream
  • 10g of Horlicks
2

When the cream starts to simmer and the powder is fully dissolved, remove from the heat and leave to cool

3

Pour the flavoured cream and the milk into a heatproof bowl and set it over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Add 45 g of the sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove the bowl from the pan

  • 150ml of milk
  • 45g of caster sugar
4

Prepare an ice bath and set another bowl on top of it. Put the egg yolks and remaining sugar into the top bowl and whisk until the sugar has dissolved. Using a ladle, spoon some of the hot cream mixture onto the cold yolks (the ice bath will prevent the eggs scrambling). Keep mixing in the cream mixture until you have incorporated about half of it. The egg and cream mixture should be thick, smooth and lump-free

5

Slowly pour the egg mixture into the heatproof bowl with the remaining half of the hot cream mixture, whisking until fully combined. Cook the custard gently over a medium heat, whisking regularly, for about 25 minutes until it is about 78°C/172°F, coats the back of a spoon and you can run your finger across the spoon without creating drips. Remove the custard from the heat, transfer into an airtight container and allow to cool to room temperature with the lid ajar. Close the lid before chilling in the refrigerator overnight

6

The next day, pour the custard into an ice-cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s directions until the ice cream is smooth and aerated.
There will be more ice cream than is needed for this recipe, but it can be stored in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months. To serve, transfer to the refrigerator for 15 minutes to let it soften very slightly, which will make it easier to scoop

7

To make the tangzhong, put the flour into a small saucepan, pour in the cold water a little at a time, and mix in the flour until smooth. Slowly warm over a low heat until it becomes gluey and you can draw a line on the surface. Remove from the heat, cover tightly with cling film so that the film touches the surface of the tangzhong and leave to cool

  • 100g of plain flour
  • 500ml of filtered water, cold
8

The tangzhong can be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.
Any leftover mixture can be used to make more baos

9

Put 100 g of the tangzhong and all the bao dough dry ingredients into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Start mixing on a low setting and then slowly add the milk and water. Finally, add the oil and continue mixing until the dough is smooth. Cover with a damp cloth or cling film and leave to prove somewhere warm for 2–3 hours depending on the temperature, until doubled in size

  • 420g of plain flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 90g of caster sugar
  • 40g of milk powder
  • 2.5g of fast-action dried yeast
  • 5g of baking powder
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 80ml of milk, at room temperature
  • 80ml of water, at room temperature
  • 10ml of vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing
10

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes – it will gradually become more elastic and the surface of the dough will become smooth. You can now use this dough to make Round baos

11

Divide the dough into 40g pieces. Give each a strong knead, then roll into smooth balls

12

Cover with baking paper to prevent them drying out while you roll the rest

13

Place each bao on a square of baking paper a little bigger than the size of the bao, then transfer to a large tray

14

Cover with a sheet of baking paper and leave to prove somewhere warm for 15–20 minutes until the baos have doubled in height. They should look relaxed, puffed up and the surface should no longer be damp. Imagine touching a smooth baby’s skin

15

To deep fry the baos, heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based saucepan to 180°C/350°F, or until a cube of ginger sizzles and browns in 10 seconds

  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying
16

Carefully add 4 of the unsteamed round baos to the hot oil and deep-fry for about 2 minutes until golden, flipping them over like a doughnut halfway through cooking. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels

17

To assemble, cut each of the deep-fried baos in half and make a depression in the bottom half with a teaspoon. Place a scoop of Horlicks ice cream in the depressions and top with the other half of the baos

First published in 2023

Wai Ting Chung, Erchen Chang, and Shing Tat Chung are the founders of London's BAO, a series of Taiwanese London restaurants, the first of which opened in 2015. Together they also wrote the BAO cookbook, which was released in 2023.

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