Turning the tarte Tatin on its head

Although many of these stories are now something of an urban legend, they do hold true to the fact that a lot of recipe development is a matter of trial and error, and that sometimes a bit of creative PR is no bad thing. In terms of the tarte Tatin, it has been recorded that forms of an upside-down tart were made in the Sologne region of France long before the Tatin sisters were around in the latter 1880s, but the name ‘Tatin’ is what stuck, while the tarte solognote is relatively unknown outside of the region itself. The main boost to the tarte’s widespread fame came when it was copied on the menu of the Paris restaurant Maxim’s during the 1920s and called Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin – the tarte of the Tatin sisters. The tarte Tatin as we know it was thus unleashed on the culinary world.

Since then, the tart has known no bounds, and now appears in many shapes and styles throughout the world’s kitchens and cuisines. Three key elements make the essential Tatin: a softened fruit or vegetable, coated in sticky caramel, and topped with a crisp pastry ‘base’.

These elements however, are open to interpretation and vary greatly depending on the creativity of the chef. For the fruit or vegetable element apples are the classic choice, but the variety differs wildly from recipe to recipe. Some chefs recommend a crisp eating apple that holds its shape well, while others favour softer, fragrant varieties that melt into the caramel. Other orchard fruits are a common substitution, and it is thought that the traditional upside-down tarts of Sologne used pears as often as they did apples. Pears have a similar firm texture, but stone fruits such as plums and apricots also work well. With the wider availability of exotic fruits, banana, mango and pineapple Tatins are now a widespread choice, the latter reminiscent of a retro pineapple upside-down cake. The soft nature of some of these fruits means that nuts are a favoured addition, giving a desirable crunch to the filling; perhaps banana and pecan, or pear and walnut.

Savoury versions of the Tatin are now popular options, with the thick pastry and caramelised vegetables making the tarts an elegant (yet filling) vegetarian dish. Onions and shallots work well as they naturally suit caramelisation, while root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips and sweet potatoes as well as pumpkins and squashes, also have a natural sweetness that is complemented by the buttery caramel.

When looking at the caramel, it fundamentally boils down to butter and sugar, but again, the choices are broader than you may think. Brown or muscovado sugars will add extra treacly flavours compared to white sugar, while salted butter can be used for savoury versions, or the popular salted-caramel take on a sweet version. On top of this the caramel can be flavoured with herbs and spices to suit the filling: some thyme or rosemary would complement root vegetables, whilst star anise would suit mango and cinnamon would work with plums.

For the pastry, puff is the most popular choice, and ready-made versions now available make it a speedy option for making a more impromptu pud. The crisp and buttery layers of puff or flaky pastry give a perfect contrast to the soft, sticky filling, while shortcrust pastry or even a scone dough could be used for a more robust, firmer finish.

The trick to all of these elements, as with most recipes, is in the cooking, and as with many things, often comes down to the trial and error of the chef. A delicate balance is required throughout the cooking process: cooking the filling ingredients until they are softened, but not turning into mush; taking the caramel far enough to get the perfect sticky glaze, but not burning to bitterness; baking the pastry until crisp, golden and cooked all the way through but has still managed to absorb some of the caramel.

And all of this before we even reach the ‘turning out’ stage. To flip the tart successfully out onto a serving plate, with filling intact and without covering oneself in burning caramel… it sounds like a kitchen fiasco waiting to happen, but with a little confidence and care, flipping your tart in one, quick movement and giving the tin a gentle tap before lifting, will ensure you keep your Tatin (and your hands) intact to enjoy. For the deliciousness of the resulting dish, it’s a culinary mishap I’m thankful to the Tatin sisters for, and one I’m definitely willing to try.