
There’s something special about the west of Ireland. The whole island might be brimming with vibrant towns, lively pubs, stunning scenery and cultural hotspots, but none of them have quite the same atmosphere as they do here. It’s like there’s something in the air; whether you’re driving through the rugged landscapes of Connemara, walking along the dramatic Cliffs of Moher in Clare or taking in the traditional music of Galway City itself, it’s clear that this is a part of Ireland that’s set apart from the rest.
We visited Galway (and followed the Wild Atlantic Way down south to Co. Clare) to take in what it had to offer anyone visiting the region. Naturally, we did this through a culinary lens, and we went along with two top chefs to get a proper stamp of approval. Dublin-born Robin Gill might work in London but his frequent visits to Galway meant he was already its biggest fan, inviting Norwich’s own Richard Bainbridge along for the ride to experience the area for the first time.
What we found was a hotbed of world-class seafood, remember-them-for-life pubs, passionate, warm people and jaw-dropping scenery that makes you want to stop and take a photo every five steps. Here are the best of what we ate, drank and did during our time there.
Wherever there are oysters, you’ll find someone local proclaiming them to be the best in the world. Ask the majority of chefs and food writers, however, and most of them will namecheck Galway. The oysters found in Galway Bay really are something special, with a particularly creamy texture and a mineral, oceanic flavour that you literally can’t find anywhere else (and if you’re in the area towards the end of September, there’s a huge festival dedicated to them). Being able to enjoy one whilst overlooking the pristine waters it grows in is a true bucket list moment for anyone into food.
There are a number of fantastic oyster producers in the Bay, but Kelly Oysters is a standout. It owns one of the few self-sustaining wild oyster beds in all of Europe, where the Galway Native Flat oysters thrive in the mixture of Atlantic seawater and naturally filtered spring water from The Burren and Connemara. They also farm the famously plump Gigas oyster on the shores of the Bay, where the tide naturally feeds and refreshes them twice a day.
kellyoysters.com. Public tours held throughout the warmer months; you can taste their oysters at seafood restaurants throughout Galway.
If a restaurant is good enough for the likes of Rick Stein and Keith Floyd, it’s good enough for us – and Moran’s Oyster Cottage is cited by both as one of their favourite places in the world. This little thatched building has been open since 1797, run by the same family for over seven generations. Inside it’s just as beautiful, with a stunning old school charm that you just can’t recreate today – all vintage advertising, little backrooms and original wooden décor.
As you might guess, people generally come out here for the oysters (it specialises in the Kelly Oysters mentioned above), but the whole range of seafood it serves is fantastic. We have huge prawns, intensely sweet crab and delicate smoked salmon, as well as the house seafood chowder, which is from a seventh-generation recipe. It’s about a 25-minute drive from Galway City, and on the way to or from Shannon Airport, so if you’re flying into or from the area there’s no excuse not to pay this very special place a visit.
moransoystercottage.com. Open Tues-Sun from 1pm.
Galway isn’t short of passionate producers and chefs – but head of the pack has to be chef Jess Murphy, who owns the lauded Restaurant Kai in the city. She might be a Kiwi by birth, but after living in this part of the world since 2005 she’s as Galway as it gets. Our unofficial tour guide during our time in the area, Jess’ passion for the local food scene is a force to be reckoned with; she has an ability to bring people together and is constantly working towards putting Galway’s food scene on the map.
For those visiting Galway, the best way to experience Jess’ passion is through the food she serves at her restaurant. With a Michelin Bib Gourmand, her dishes are both incredible value and a who’s who of the best producers and artisans in the region. Local, seasonal ingredients take the lead, but how they’re cooked and what they’re flavoured with can take you all over the world. Jess worked in multiple Michelin-starred kitchens before opening Kai and you can really tell the second a plate gets set down in front of you. The restaurant itself is also wonderfully personal and unique; a clear labour of love of both Jess and her husband Dave, which has grown and evolved since its opening back in 2011.
kairestaurant.ie. Open Tues-Sat for lunch and dinner.
We all know how good Irish whiskey is – and the team at Micil Distillery produce a cracking one – but it’s the lesser-known poitín coming out of their still which is really making waves. Situated in Salthill in the southwest part of the city, this distillery might be relatively new (it’s only been in operation since 2020) but there are over 170 years of experience and heritage behind it.
Poitín itself – often thought of as being made from potatoes but actually generally made using grain – is best described as an unaged whiskey. The team at Micil liken it to tequila; it’s also been compared with Italian grappa. But it’s the story behind poitín that really makes it interesting. While it only became legal to distil in the Republic of Ireland in 1997 (it’s still illegal in Northern Ireland), it has been produced illicitly for centuries all over the island.
At Micil, head distiller Jimín Ó Griallais comes from a long line of poitín distilling ancestry, and some of the stories he tells of his grandfather’s brushes with the law during the distillery tours are captivating to say the least. He quality controls all of Micil’s spirits by nose alone – a rare thing indeed – and is clearly one of those people born to do what he does; Micil’s whiskeys, poitín, gin and Irish cream have won countless awards.
micildistillery.com. Daily tours start from €25.
The pub culture in Ireland is second to none, and you’re certainly spoilt for choice in a city like Galway. But if there’s one you must visit, it’s The Crane Bar, just down the road from Restaurant Kai. This is a proper traditional Irish pub which has staunchly stayed true to its roots and is now one of the ‘must-visit’ watering holes in the city. And while you can get a great pint of Guinness here, it’s the live traditional music that really draws the crowds.
Every night of the week the upstairs room of The Crane hosts intimate trad music gigs. Rather than a stage or a clear division between performer and audience, the musicians – when we went it was the pub’s owner Mick Crehan on the tin whistle accompanied by an accordion player – simply take a seat at a table and begin playing. It’s the ultimate way to enjoy the traditional music of Ireland and a great night out.
thecranebar.com. Trad music sessions nightly from 9.30pm; get there early as it can be quite crowded.
You might think going for a swim in the North Atlantic Ocean is more of an endurance challenge than something you’d do for fun, but Galway City’s iconic Blackrock Diving Tower in Salthill (around 10 minutes’ drive southwest from the centre) had dozens of wild swimmers enjoying an early morning dip when we were there. While actually jumping off the tower (especially at the highest point) is generally reserved for thrill-seekers, there are plenty of less white-knuckle entry points into the water along the beach. Is it as warm and inviting as the Caribbean Sea? Perhaps not – but after that initial intake of breath as the water laps at your feet you acclimatise surprisingly quickly and feel seriously refreshed after it.
Once you’ve dried off, the best way to warm up is with a coffee at the Blackrock Cottage, just a few brisk footsteps away. This beautiful little building has been known for its food and drink since it was refurbished in 2022 and was voted the best restaurant in Galway at the Irish Restaurant Awards, so there’s ample excuse to stay for a bite as well. It’s also open for lunch and dinner, so even if you’re not the wild swimming type, Blackrock is well worth a visit.
blackrockcottage.ie. Always check tide times and safety information before swimming.
Edible treats from the shoreline generally involve gills, fins or shells – and Galway certainly has some of the best seafood in the world. But Ireland’s west coast has so much more to offer; something Sinéad O’Brien knows all too well. She founded Mungo Murphy’s Seaweed Co. at her mother Cindy’s aquaculture farm in Connemara, and now cultivates all kinds of weird and wonderful seaweeds for the finest restaurants in Ireland.
If you’re keen to know more, Sinéad also runs tours of the place – and it’s really fascinating. As well as offering coastal foraging walks, where you can literally grab lunch from the sea, there’s also the chance to taste a variety of dried seaweeds and learn more about how important seaweed is to the world we live in. If you’ve even a passing interest in sustainable food it’s well worth the trip, and Sinéad’s passion for what she does is infectious.
It’s about a 40-minute drive from Galway City, but the drive itself is a stunning one, with the dramatic coastline to your left and otherworldly bogland divided up by the region’s iconic dry-stone walls to your right. You might even glimpse the famous Connemara ponies on the way.
mungomurphyseaweed.com. Tours run on Sundays from €25.
Seaweed isn’t just a culinary delight; it can do wonders for your skin, too. Seaweed ‘baths’ are becoming more and more popular, but the ones here, on Doolin Pier, have the added bonus of breathtaking views. These are actually in Co. Clare, rather than Galway, but if you’re travelling to or from Shannon Airport the baths are a natural stop-off.
Sit yourself in an old Irish whiskey barrel filled with seawater, warmed using a unique and environmentally friendly heat recovery system. One of the team will then pour in a bucket of seaweed, collected literally footsteps away. Over the next 60 minutes, the natural oils in the seaweed will work wonders on your skin, soothing any aches and pains and offer up the ultimate in relaxation. Being able to do all this while looking out at the Aran Islands as the waves crash against the coastline is serenity itself. There’s also a sauna and cold plunge pools, too, if you want to really awaken the senses.
There’s more than just the baths to explore here, too – the village of Doolin is famous for its colourful shops and houses, and just five miles south are the towering Cliffs of Moher, which offer some of Ireland’s most breathtaking coastal hikes. That means there are more photo opportunities within a five-mile radius than you can shake a stick (or wave a piece of bladderwrack) at.
wildatlanticseaweedbaths.com. Open March-October; check website for opening days as they vary throughout the year. Sessions from €60.
As you can see, the west coast of Ireland has heaps to offer, be it world-class food, jaw-dropping scenery, the best pubs you'll ever sip a pint in or simply a warm welcome whenever you step into a shop, restaurant or market. While you start to plan your own dream holiday to the island, take a look at the recipes which our two chefs created on the shores of Galway Bay; two odes to the true jewel in the Wild Atlantic Way's crown: the oyster.
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