Where Croatia’s western coastline has an obvious Mediterranean feel, the inland regions have a long and storied history with the Austro-Hungarian empire, and the food is reflective of that. Meat dishes are far more common inland, but don’t assume they’re all heavy stews with potatoes and cabbage. Many are accompanied by fresh seasonal or root vegetable sides, or come in the form of hearty, peppery soups with homemade noodles or dumplings.
Croatia’s capital Zagreb is where you’ll find the greatest variety of dishes. While it might not follow the trend for street food found in other major cities, it more than makes up for it in its restaurants. Heaving platters of locally made charcuterie and cheese tend to be served at the beginning of a meal, often accompanied by famous Samobor mustard and a glass of Bernet – an aromatic red wine liqueur.
Similar to German spätzle, central Croatia has mlinci – a local variety of pasta that is boiled and then baked in the oven alongside roast turkey, soaking up all the delicious juices. Look out for Kotlovina, too – a combination of meats, sausages and vegetables simmered over an open fire on a special metal plate for hours on end, allowing the flavours to meld together. In fact, sausages are a shining example of Zagreb’s food scene, particularly in the winter. They’re often homemade and flavoured with garlic (češnjovke) or made in a similar way to black pudding (krvavice).
That’s not to say vegetarians will go hungry, however; pasta dishes, cabbage stews and simply prepared wild mushrooms are among some of the most beloved dishes in Zagreb. Štrukli is another speciality of the capital worth looking out for, and another of Croatia’s protected national heritage dishes. These versatile filo parcels are traditionally filled with cottage cheese and eggs, then usually served with fresh cream, but they can be enjoyed at any time of day, both sweet and savoury. In Zagreb the flavours of Štrukli are incredibly varied, and make up a large part of the city’s burgeoning food scene.
Room for dessert? Try the unusual sounding bučnica, made with grated marrow, sugar and cream. There’s also the paprenjak, a famous biscuit made with honey and black pepper. Watch out for makovnjača and orehnjača (traditional poppy seed and walnut rolls) too, which often appear on celebratory occasions like Easter and Christmas.