What's cooking in January? Top chefs share their favourite winter ingredients
The first few months of the year are often seen as dreary, ingredient-scarce months while we wait for the bounty of spring – but chefs know there are real gems to be found. We speak to five of the best to find out what they're excited about cooking this winter.
What's cooking in January? Top chefs share their favourite winter ingredients
The first few months of the year are often seen as dreary, ingredient-scarce months while we wait for the bounty of spring – but chefs know there are real gems to be found. We speak to five of the best to find out what they're excited about cooking this winter.
January and early February are often assumed to be a fallow time for produce. A part of the year where fields are bare and brown; the polar opposite of spring and summer. Yet, for chefs focused on British seasonality, January has surprisingly plentiful produce – if you know where to look.
We asked a few top chefs what they get the most excited about cooking at this time of year in their restaurants. Far from a time of scarcity, this is a rundown of the excellent seasonal produce ready to be cooked and eaten before the green shoots of spring arrive.
Anna Haugh
"For me, Jerusalem artichoke is at its peak this time of year, and I love these deceivingly devious fellas. They love a dash of white wine and a squeeze of honey to transform them into the base for an unforgettable soup. It’s one of my favourite vegetables: it can go from a roasted crispy alternative to a spud, to a wonderful luscious ice cream. We use it at Myrtle a lot; not least as a rich and nourishing soup with Jerusalem artichoke crisps. I remember my father almost had to have his hands tied to stop him eating those crisps before we served the soup! If you're a bit green fingered, it’s pretty invasive, so each year you'll get a good crop of them, and they’ll still be delicious throughout February."
Johnnie Crowe
"Although January has slightly less to offer than some other months, there are certainly plenty of things to get excited about. On the game side of things, the season is most certainly still in full flow with woodcock (the most prized game bird) being bang in season. It isn't as gamey as grouse but it's more flavourful than partridge. We serve the bird at St Barts classically, making a sauce to order using cider brandy and the offal of the bird.
Early-season wild garlic shoots are also likely to pop up in January and early February. These shoots are more durable than the larger leaves present in March, and cook extremely well on the barbecue. They are only around right at the start of the season, which for the past few years has been towards the end of January.
January King cabbage is also abundant and is one of my favourite cabbages to cook with. Somewhere between savoy and hispi, it's flavourful, dense but also works well in salads, as well as grilled on the barbecue."
Chantelle Nicholson
"January is exciting! Jerusalem artichokes are really underrated; you also can't beat a sweet and dry squash such as kabocha, red kuri (aka onion squash) or crown prince, which might be easier to find at the supermarket. At the moment, we're making a silky velouté to pour over a sourdough and caramelised shallot agnolotti: a warming winter hug in a bowl. There's also the incredible forced Yorkshire rhubarb that starts to come in. Barbie pink and very floral in flavour, it's so good pickled, poached or roasted. And, for some greenery, I'm not ashamed to say that my love for kale is unbounded. My top tip is that if you’re using it raw, you’ll need to give it a full deep-tissue massage first!"
Florence Mae Maglanoc
"This January we are so excited to get some brilliant celeriac in, specifically for a seasonal take on our atchara salad. The dish is a delicious, traditional Filipino pickled salad. We start with a pickling liquor of white wine and coconut vinegars, gently sweetened and infused with ginger, garlic, and cracked black pepper. Carrots and kohlrabi are pickled for 24 hours to develop depth, while the seasonal celeriac is finely julienned, lightly salted, and rinsed to retain freshness. The dish is anchored by a smooth purée of roasted celeriac and macadamia, bringing a rich, nutty roundness that grounds the sharp, fermented notes of the salad."
Ben Miller
"At this time of year in London, like many, I’m drawn to Jerusalem artichokes and forced Yorkshire rhubarb. Jerusalem artichokes are at their best in winter: sweet, nutty, and deeply comforting. I like to roast them slowly in brown butter, then purée them silky smooth or leave them whole and serve them over ricotta with hazelnuts and sage. Forced rhubarb has a delicate acidity and vibrant colour that lifts heavier dishes. I like to cook the rhubarb slowly with sugar, vanilla and lemon zest until it becomes a jam. This thick rhubarb jam is so versatile, great to use at the base of a crème brûlée, or spread on a bagel with cream cheese. At the restaurant, Alex Dilling at the Hotel Café Royal, we are always excited when rhubarb season comes and we come up with fresh new ways to utilise this great British ingredient."
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