If there is one chef capable of resurrecting The Midland Hotel’s reputation for extraordinary food (The French won and promptly lost a Michelin star back in the seventies) it is Rogan. Here is a chef who has forged a new direction for British cuisine from his humble Cumbrian restaurant, L’Enclume, while also establishing London pop-up Roganic as one of the capital’s best between 2011 and 2013.
In this Grade 2 listed building, he is on equally sorcerous form. Expect magical dishes that blend nature with the nouveau; alchemy with the artful. Just don’t expect the predictable. Every one of the taster menu courses – whether you go for 3, 6 or 10 - is a feast for the senses and imagination. Offerings include ‘Razor role reversal, eggs, dill, celeriac and sea herbs’- a wittily plated razor clams ensemble - and the more austere sounding ‘Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi and sunflower seeds’ – which Independent reviewer Lisa Markwell put in her top 10 dishes of all time.
Mancunians starved of quality fine-dining establishments have taken to Rogan’s food as quick as you can say ‘Studded Cumbrian Rose veal’; the large oval dining room abuzz with chatter and gasps of appreciation. The credit should not only fall on Rogan's shoulders, though. Service is expertly led by former L'Enclume assistant restaurant manager, Kamila Plonska, while Head Chef duties are entrusted to Mancunian Adam Reid, with Rogan dividing his time between Manchester, Cartmel and London's Claridges.