Savoy cabbage with anchoïade

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Anchoïade is a deliciously moreish garlic and anchovy-based sauce (or dip) from the Provençal region of France. Here Matt Ryle serves it very classically atop a tower of steamed and grilled cabbage leaves with some crispy anchovy breadcrumbs for texture. Serve as a simple lunch with bread, or as a tasty side to your next roast chicken.

First published in 2022




Anchovy oil and croutons

  • 45g of anchovies
  • 125ml of olive oil
  • 150g of sourdough breadcrumbs


Savoy cabbage


  • Blender
  • Squeezy bottle
  • Steamer



To make the anchovy oil, place the anchovies and olive oil into a blender and blitz until the anchovies have emulsified with the oil. Store in the fridge


To make the croutons, preheat an oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Mix 25ml of the anchovy oil with the sourdough breadcrumbs, then place on a baking tray. Bake for 5–7 minutes until golden, cool then blitz in a blender to get a consistent crumb. Reserve in an airtight container

  • 150g of sourdough breadcrumbs

To make the anchoïade, peel the garlic cloves. Place the cloves in a pan with the water and 140ml of the milk and bring to the boil, skimming the froth from the milk as it boils – you need to skim at least 5 times to make sure you remove all the impurities. After 5 skims, add the 30ml of milk left and make sure this covers the garlic. Simmer over a low heat until the garlic cloves break down into a thick paste, then chill


Transfer the chilled garlic paste to a blender and blitz it with the anchovies, lemon juice and a splash of vinegar until smooth. Gradually add the oil with the motor running slowly to emulsify – be aware of how thick it is getting and add some water to loosen if necessary. Pass through a fine sieve and taste, adding more vinegar if needed. Store in a squeezy bottle if you have one

  • 12g of anchovies, ideally Ortiz anchovies
  • Chardonnay vinegar to taste
  • 1 dash of lemon juice
  • 25g of vegetable oil

To cook the cabbage, break off the leaves and cut off any larger ‘ribs’ using a small knife. Place a double layer of cling film onto a clean surface, then layer up the leaves  in a long, thin rectangle – you'll be cutting this into 4 portions to serve, so make sure it's long enough. Roll up the leaves into a tight sausages then secure each end with a knot. Steam the cabbage cylinder for 8 minutes until tender


Remove the clingfilm and slice the cabbage into 4 equal portions, placing them standing up on a tray. Drizzle with a little anchovy oil and place under a hot grill until crisp and golden on top


To serve, top with the achoïade, cover with anchovy breadcrumbs and sprinkle with chives. Serve up warm with a final drizzle of anchovy oil

First published in 2022

Matt is the head chef at Maison Francois in London.

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