This beautiful, bountiful rice dish is absolutely jam-packed with herbs, which play a starring role alongside fragrant saffron and advieh (a Persian spice mix). The grains themselves are perfectly cooked, and the tortilla on the base creates a wonderful tahdig (a crunchy base which is a calling card of these sorts of large rice dishes). It’s one of those dishes that sounds like a side but is, in fact, the centrepiece.
Rinse the rice 3-4 times in cold water, then submerge in lots of fresh cold water and add 1 tbsp of the salt. Leave to soak for 1 hour
Drain and rinse the rice in cold water once again, then leave to drain completely
Mix together the fresh herbs, fenugreek and spring onions until evenly distributed
Pour 3 litres of water into a large lidded saucepan and add the remaining tbsp of salt. Bring to a rolling boil over a high heat
Add the drained rice to the boiling water. Leave to cook for 3 minutes, then grab a grain and squish it between your fingers. If you feel a hard centre but soft exterior, it’s ready. You only want the grains to be halfway cooked
When the rice is appropriately parboiled, immediately turn off the heat and quickly drain the rice in a fine colander over the sink. Quickly rinse the parboiled rice with cold water to stop the cooking process. If you have a tap with a nozzle, use it now; it really comes into its own here. Set the colander aside until needed; your best bet is to leave it in the sink to let any excess water continue to drain
Put the saffron and sugar in a pestle and mortar and grind to a fine powder. Mix in the 4 tbsp hot water to create some brewed saffron water
Rinse the pot you used to boil your rice with cold water, then add the olive oil or melted butter, along with 3.5 tbsp water and 1 tbsp of the saffron water. Swirl to coat the bottom of the pot, then sit the tortilla on the bottom of the pot
Give the colander of rice a good shake, then take a large spoonful of rice and spread it across the tortilla, pressing it down gently. After the first spoonful of rice has been layered across the bottom of the pot, add a large spoonful of the herb mixture, followed by a large spoonful of rice and a sprinkling of advieh. Try your best to fluff your herbs and rice with a fork and form it into a pyramid-like mound as you repeat the layers
Once all your rice, herbs and advieh are in your pot and you have what looks more like a mound than a pyramid (no matter how hard you tried), take the end of a wooden spoon and poke 5-7 holes in the top of your rice. Drizzle the melted butter and the remaining brewed saffron and its water over top
Wrap the lid of the pot in a clean tea towel, making sure to secure the towel on top of the pot so that it doesn’t catch fire if you are using a gas burner (I use a rubber band tied around the gathered corners of the towel). Place the towelled lid back on the pan
If you have a gas stove and a heat diffuser, this is the perfect time to pop that heat diffuser on your burner. Cook your pot of rice over a medium heat for 8 minutes, then reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cook for a further 45–60 minutes, until your rice is fluffy and tender
When your rice is ready, lift the lid and gently agitate the rice, mixing the herb and rice layers together. Then, pop the lid back on, and fill your sink with 2.5cm cold water. Place your pot in the sink for 10-15 seconds – the cold water will help release the gazmakh (aka tahdig) from the pot
Find a platter that fits over the top of your pot. Carefully remove the pot from the sink, take off the lid, and place the platter on top of the pot. Then, using both hands, flip the pot over in one quick fluid motion. Take a deep breath, tap on the top and sides of the pot before lifting the pot up from the platter, and see if you’ve done it. You very well may have a perfectly intact, perfectly golden, presentation-worthy round of golden tortilla on your platter. And you may not. If you don’t, join the club. It’s not very exclusive, but it’s pretty awesome and very delicious all the same
Anna Ansari has a background in Asian studies, with a BA from Barnard College, Columbia University and an MA from Yale University. Her writing focuses on the intersection of food, family, and history, with special attention to the immigrant experience and foods of the Asian continent. She is particularly interested in the ways food, flavours, and ingredients move across borders, carried in the memories and pockets of travellers and transplants. You can find more of her writing in Pit Magazine, Eaten Magazine and Fillerzine. An Iranian-American from Detroit and former international customs and trade attorney, Anna lives in London with her husband, son and cat.
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