We’ve all seen asparagus wrapped in pancetta; that same contrast of vegetal freshness and salty richness is what makes this little bite from Joe Otway so good. The wrapped runner beans are taken to the next level with a hidden pickled perilla leaf, which adds herbaceous acidity, and a wonderful oyster emulsion, which brings everything together with panache.
Joe says: “I think runner beans are one of the most underrated vegetables in the British seasonal calendar. A vegetable that seems lost to tinned foods and memories of old-fashioned school dinners. Picked at the right time, however, these beans can be so tender and full of sweetness and require little to no preparation other than cutting.
We were surprised at how fruitful our runner bean trellises became at our farm (too fruitful perhaps!), leading us to slowly braise big batches of them once they grew large later on in the season.
For this recipe we showcase the beans in a very simple form: young and tender, sliced and wrapped in cured beef bresaola and pickled perilla leaves alongside an oyster emulsion.”
Begin by making the oyster emulsion. Shuck the oysters and reserve both the meat and the liquor, ensuring there’s no grit. Transfer both to a blender with the apple cider vinegar (or put them all in a bowl and use a stick blender) and blitz. With the motor still running, gradually trickle in the vegetable oil to make a mayonnaise. Season to taste
Put the water and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then add the runner beans and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of iced water. The beans should be tender and not squeaky when you bite into them
Slice the runner beans in half at a sharp angle. Lay the slices of bresaola out, add a perilla leaf to each, then a piece of runner bean on top. Wrap them up to create little parcels
To serve, brush the wrapped beans with a little olive oil and elderflower vinegar. Serve alongside a spoonful of the oyster emulsion
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