“When I visit London, I pick my friend and cookbook author Edd Kimber’s brain for the absolute must-visit bakeries in the city. He knows all the best spots and what’s new and delicious and usually joins me. The fat slice of gorgeously toffee-colored honey butter toast at the French-Asian Arôme Bakery made with shokupan (Japanese milk bread) is deceivingly simple in appearance. However, once you get into it and pull it apart, you’ll find it’s crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. Take a bite, and you’ll realise it’s best not to share. Edd and I each got our own toast that day.”
This recipe is taken from Fundamentals of Flavor: 100 Recipes for the Science of Better Cooking by Nik Sharma (£35, Chronicle Books). Photography by Nik Sharma.
Nik says: “In my version, I’ve added miso for an extra layer of salty umami, which stands out against the bittersweet caramel notes. The sugars and amino acids in honey, brown sugar, butter, miso, and bread jump into the caramelisation and Maillard reactions to produce a bittersweet, salty flavor with a savory, crunchy bite. Which reaction is it, or is it both?”
THE FLAVOUR FILES
Yellow and white miso work best in desserts because they aren’t too salty
I’ve used miso here to add saltiness, which negates the need for more salt. If you don’t have miso, sprinkle flaky salt over the toast instead when it comes out of the oven
Shiro suri goma is ground roasted white sesame seeds used in Japanese cuisine and found in Asian grocery stores and online
Try the toast warm and cold to experience how temperature changes the perception of flavor. What did you notice?
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a baking sheet with baking paper and place a wire rack on top
In a small bowl, combine the butter, brown sugar, honey, and miso. If the mixture is too stiff, add 1 to 2 tbsp hot water to help loosen it up
Using a butter knife or offset spatula, brush each side and the edges of each slice of bread with the butter mixture. Place the bread on the wire rack on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Flip and bake the other side until golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes
Sprinkle the shiro suri goma (if using) on the warm toasts. Let cool on the rack for 5 minutes and serve. This toast can be served at room temperature and prepared a day ahead. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day
Former molecular biologist Nik Sharma is a bestselling cookbook author celebrated for blending culinary science with deeply personal storytelling. His cookbooks are Fundamentals of Flavor, Season, The Flavor Equation, and Veg-Table. He is host and cast member on cooking shows that span YouTube, Netflix and PBS and his writing and photography have been featured in The San Francisco Chronicle, The New York Times, The Guardian, and The Wall Street Journal, among others.
Please sign in or register to send a comment to Great British Chefs.