Hare with poached quince, kale and pickled blackcurrants

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Certainly not a dish for the faint-hearted, this complex, classical preparation of hare comes partnered with slices of sweet quince, a verdant lovage emulsion, crispy kale leaves, pickled blackcurrants and a dainty potato galette. An intense hare sauce and incredibly rich boudin of hare leg, pork mince, lardo and foie gras finishes things off very nicely indeed. If attempting this dish, do make sure to come up with a plan of action and try and get as many elements made in advance to avoid giving yourself too much work on the day you're planning to serve.

First published in 2021

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Pickled blackcurrants

  • 100g of caster sugar
  • 100g of water
  • 100g of white wine vinegar
  • 200g of blackcurrants

Braised hare

Lovage emulsion

Hare boudins

  • pork belly, minced (equal weight to the minced hare)
  • lardo, finely diced (half the amount of minced hare)
  • foie gras, finely diced (half the amount of minced hare)
  • salt, (4g per 500g of mixture)
  • 1 handful of soft herbs, chopped (parsely, chervil, tarragon)
  • 50g of Dijon mustard
  • 1 egg
  • 100g of double cream

Potato galette

Poached Quince

Crispy kale

Hare loin

Equipment

  • Steam oven or steamer
  • Squeezy bottle
  • Food processor or blender

Method

1
Make the pickled blackcurrants at least a week in advance. Bring the sugar, water and vinegar to the boil then allow to cool before pouring over the blackcurrants. Leave to pickle for 1 week in a sealed container
2
Begin preparing the rest of the dish at least a day in advance, as the stock and braising takes up to 12 hours. Trim the hare loins of any sinew and roll in cling film to obtain an even cylindrical shape. Set aside in the fridge
3
The shoulders are braised in a hare stock, so make this first. Place the hare bones and any trimmings in a large pan with the shallots, garlic, mushrooms, thyme and a dash of oil. Caramelise until a nice deep golden colour (the more colour you get here, the more flavourful the stock will be). Deglaze the pan with the red wine and port and let this reduce by two-thirds (around 400ml). Once reduced, add the chicken stock and kombu and gently simmer for 3-4 hours, constantly skimming away any scum. After this time, strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a clean pan
4
For the lovage emulsion, you need to make a lovage oil, which requires hanging overnight. Blitz the oil with the lovage leaves for 10 minutes in a high-powered blender, then strain through a muslin cloth-lined sieve set over a bowl and leave in the fridge overnight
5
Once the stock is ready, you can braise the shoulders and legs. Split the shoulders and legs down the middle of the bone. Set aside half of the legs for the boudin, then place the other half along with the shoulders in a large heavy-bottomed pan with a splash of oil to brown
6
Once browned all over, remove from the pan. Add a glug more oil and caramelise the onions, carrot, leek, celery and garlic with the rosemary and thyme. Once nice and caramelised, add the meat back in and cover with the hare stock. Gently braise at 100°C for 6-8 hours until the meat is falling off the bones
7
Once cooled, pick the meat from the shoulder and leg bones and reserve. Strain the braising stock through a fine sieve into a clean pan and place back over the heat to reduce down into a rich and glossy sauce
8
Next make the hare boudins. Take the meat off the bone from the reserved legs and mince. Weigh the mince and place in a bowl with the same amount of pork belly mince
9
Halve the overall weight of hare mince and finely dice this amount of both lardo and fois gras. Add this to the bowl with the mince. Now weigh the total mixture and add 2g of salt for every 250g of mixture
10
Stir in the herbs, mustard, egg and cream. Roll the mixture tightly in clingfilm and tie up at both ends to form a sausage shape. Steam at 65°C for 90 minutes, then leave to cool. Slice into 8 portions then reserve in the fridge, ready to be reheated with some of the sauce before serving
11
To poach the quince, bring the water to the boil with the vinegar, sugar, cardamom pods, rosemary and saffron. Add the peeled quinces and gently poach for 30-40 minutes until soft. Portion into 16 wedges, ready to reheat
12
To make the potato galette, peel the potato and julienne very finely. Blanch the potato in boiling water for 30 seconds, then plunge into ice water to cool. Squeeze dry and mix with the butter and a pinch of salt. Arrange the potato in a pattern similar to the image in a non-stick pan, (place a piece of greaseproof paper into the pan if your pan isn’t very non-stick). Slowly cook until crisp and golden brown, then set aside
13
To make the lovage emulsion, place the egg yolks in a bowl with the Dijon mustard and vinegar and a pinch of salt. Whisk until thick and pale then slowly pour in the strained lovage oil, continuously whisking so that it emulsifies. If it starts to split, add a splash of water to bring it back together. Taste and season with salt and more vinegar if needed, then transfer to a squeezy bottle
14
To make the crispy kale, blanch the kale in boiling salted water for 1 minute then refresh in iced water. Pat dry with kitchen paper and then place in a small, very hot frying pan with a small amount of oil and fry until crispy. Drain on kitchen roll
15
Now everything is ready to assemble. Allow the loins to come to room temperature and season with salt. Cook in a hot pan with foaming butter, garlic and thyme for 4 minutes, then leave to rest in a warm place before carving
16
Reheat the boudin slices in a non-stick pan with spoonfuls of the sauce to glaze
17
Heat the quince slices in a pan with a splash of oil for a little caramelisation
18
Carve the loins in half and plate on warmed plates. Add the glazed boudin slice, quince slices, lovage emulsion, kale crisps, potato galettes and pickled blackcurrants. Finish with spoonfuls of the warmed hare sauce

Greg is a seriously accomplished chef who after six years at Galton Blackiston's Morston Hall set out on his own with his partner Rebecca Williams to open Meadowsweet in Holt, Norfolk in 2021.

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