Anjou pigeon, calamansi & rhubarb

  • medium
  • 6
  • 6 hours plus 6 hours for cooking the pigeon sauce
Not yet rated

In this dish Max Coen serves pigeon cooked over a robata with a bright calamansi and hibiscus purée. Thinly sliced rhubarb makes for the ideal finishing touch, and acts as a great example of how to use rhubarb in savoury cooking.

First published in 2025

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

For the chanterelle sauce

For the calamansi hibiscus purée

  • 100g of hibiscus flowers
  • 500l water
  • 250g of sugar
  • 6 green sichuan pepper
  • 500g of rhubarb, as pink as you can find
  • 100g of apple juice, Flourish
  • 80g of tiger lemon juice
  • 3 calamansi, zest and juice
  • agar agar powder, weigh according to quantity of reduction
  • 115g of caster sugar

For the pigeon sauce

For the pigeon

Equipment

  • Thermomix
  • High-power blender
  • Thermometer
  • Vacuum bag and machine
  • Robata grill

Method

1

Preheat the oven to 150°C fan

2

Roast the sesame seeds for 20 minutes and the hazelnuts for 30 minutes on separate trays until they are both fragrant and toasted

3

Blend in the Thermomix at speed 6 for 4 minutes, and then at speed 10 for 2 minutes, until they form a very smooth butter. Alternatively, blend in a high powered blender until completely smooth

4

Heat a generous amount of oil in a large wide pan. Add the mushrooms and cook over a medium-high heat until browned, then turn down the heat and cook low and slow until they turn golden. They should be very dry and crispy

5

Add the shallots, Swiss chard, thyme, kampot peppercorns and garlic and continue to cook slowly

6

Once the mushrooms and shallots have cooked down and are golden with little liquid left add the chicken stock, popcorn, black garlic and nut butter

7

Cook for 30 minutes until dark and reduced

8

Add the celery juice and cook for 10 minutes

9

Blend in a high powdered blender in batches until smooth

10

Pass the blended liquid through a chinois and season to taste with caster sugar and verjus

  • 75g of caster sugar
  • 40g of verjus
11

For the hibiscus tea, bring the hibiscus and water to a boil then remove from the heat

  • 100g of hibiscus flowers
  • 500ml of water
12

Let infuse for 30 minutes, then strain

13

Bring the hibiscus tea to a boil with the sugar. Cook until it reaches 106°C, then remove from the heat

  • 250g of sugar
14

Toast and coarsely blend the Sichuan pepper

  • 6 green sichuan pepper
15

Blend the rhubarb with the apple juice, citrus juices, pepper and 100g hibiscus syrup

16

Pass this through a chinois

17

Weigh the liquid to see how much you get. Weigh out agar in the ratio of 500g liquid to 15g agar

  • agar agar powder, weigh according to quantity of reduction
18

Boil half of the liquid with the agar for 2 minutes to activate the agar

19

Pour this into a container and then refrigerate until fully set, about 45 minutes

20

Blend the remaining liquid with the agar jelly in a very high powdered blender until smooth, then set aside until ready to serve

21

For the pigeon sauce, preheat the oven to 170°C fan

22

Roast all the chicken wings and half the bones in the oven for 30 minutes

23

Remove the roasted wings and bones from the tray and set them aside. Deglaze the tray with water and reserve the water

24

Caramelise the other half of the pigeon bones in a large, wide pan for 20 minutes with some oil

25

Add the vegetables, aromatics and clementine to the bones and and cook until the shallots are deeply golden, about 15–20 minutes, adding more oil as needed

26

Add the thyme and both peppercorns and cook until toasted and aromatic, about 10 minutes

27

Deglaze the pan with the wine and sherry vinegar

  • 90g of Madeira
  • 45g of red wine
  • 1 tbsp of sherry vinegar
28

Add the stocks, fond-infused water and enough water to cover the bones

  • 75g of reduced beef stock
  • 1kg brown chicken stock
29

Bring to a simmer, then cook over a low heat for 6 hours

30

Pass the sauce through a chinois and reduce by half

31

Use a pair of scissors to cut the birds in half down the spine and also down the back side – the leg should still be attached

32

Sear the pigeon over live fire – in the restaurant they use a robata grill – skin-side down until the flesh reaches 52°C. Flip to cook the bone side for 10 seconds every now and again as the pigeon cooks, about three times

33

Season the morels with oil and salt, and then cook over the grill until browned, about 15 minutes, turning regularly

34

Mix together sliced shallots, bitter leaves and sliced rhubarb, then season with lemon juice

35

Place a spoonful of the chanterelle sauce on the plate, add a quenelle of calamansi purée, then finish with the salad

36

Place the barbecued morel on top and a slice of blood orange to finish. Finish with pigeon sauce

First published in 2025

A star-studded career with stints at Frantzén and Ikoyi helped inform Max Coen’s creative cooking. Now, at his Notting Hill restaurant Dorian, he’s throwing away some of the fine-dining norms to create his own style of uniquely delicious food: and the city is all the better for it.   

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