When opening a restaurant inside a smart London hotel, it'a all too easy to fall into the trap of offering a safe style of food which only appeals to a very specific clientele. However, with a chef as creative as Sally Abé at the helm, that was never going to be a risk at The Pem. Nestled within the hyper-smart Conrad London St. James, the menu here is all about taking classic flavour combinations and then refining them to create sophisticated yet familiar dishes.

Named after suffragette Emily Davison, who was called Pem by her family, the restaurant aims to celebrate women — something reflected by Abé’s female-fronted team. The softly lit main dining room, which has space for up to seventy covers, is decorated in striking pinks and deep reds and has a wonderful art deco feel to it with plush seats and banquettes a plenty. Meanwhile, a separate private dining room provides the option of a more secluded setting.

There’s a real emphasis on using high-quality, sustainable British produce at The Pem, and Abé also tries to work with small scale producers wherever possible. Dictated by the seasons, the ever-changing menu might include dishes such as poached native lobster served with a shellfish cream, heritage tomatoes and a sweet olive, or roasted John Dory with brassicas, lemon and sauce choron. Diners at The Pem are encouraged to leave space for one of Abé’s signature desserts such as her take on a classic Black Forest gateau, which comes served with an English cherry ripple ice cream.

Curated by sommelier Emily Harman, the carefully thought-out wine list at the Pem showcases an eclectic mixture of wines with plenty of options from both independent producers and some more recognisable names. Other drinks are available from the hotel’s brand-new cocktail bar The Hedgerow, where diners can head before or after their meal.

In opening The Pem, Sally Abé has brought her signature, produce-focused style to a whole new setting, while avoiding the pretentious cliché often associated with hotel fine dining.

Photography by Tim Green