It’s fair to say that Indian food in this country wouldn’t be what it is today without Atul Kochhar. At Tamarind and later Benares, he took traditional dishes and brought them into the twenty-first century with a sophisticated touch. Benares remains his flagship restaurant but Sindhu is just as impressive, serving up Atul’s unique take on Indian cuisine to the people of Marlow.

As for location, Sindhu really ticks all the boxes. The restaurant is part of the Macdonald Compleat Angler hotel, perched right on the banks of the Thames – so close to the Marlow weir that you can see the spray glistening over the river. This means that diners have the option of staying the night in one of the hotel's sixty-four rooms, many of which boast glorious views of the Thames and Marlow town.

Atul’s food is unmistakably Indian – and his research into dishes is famously meticulous – but he displays a huge respect for British ingredients at Sindhu. Romney Marsh lamb is used for tandoor-grilled lamb cutlets and slow-cooked lamb shank with browned onion and yoghurt. Atlantic halibut is cooked with lemon and curry leaf, and comes alongside local asparagus and a spiced tomato sauce. There’s a strong seafood influence too, with a variety of prawn, scallop and crab dishes on the menu. From top to bottom, this is Atul’s British-Indian fusion at its very best, and there’s an excellent seven-course tasting menu for anyone who wants a little more adventure than the à la carte.

The wine list is compact but well-devised, with an excellent selection from Europe and the New World. There’s a clever Indian-inspired cocktail menu too, including the enticing Sindhu Martini – made with Tanqueray gin, curry leaves, fresh ginger and lemongrass.