The Black Swan at Oldstead is the perfect example of a destination restaurant. Set in a beautiful remote location with food on offer that you can’t find anywhere else. It’s what made Tommy Banks one of the biggest names in British cooking and continues to be home to one of the best tasting menus in the country. For something a little more relaxed, cheaper and easier to get to, however, the chef’s second restaurant Roots fits the bill perfectly. The quality, however, is still very much of the highest calibre – confirmed by its own Michelin star, which it won in 2021.

Set in a large former pub, the restaurant is all bare wood, natural light and neutral colours, reflecting the fact that the produce and ingredients – the majority of which come from the Banks family farm – take centre stage. Depending on what time of year you visit, the menu will be one of three. January to May is called ‘Hunger Gap’, where preserved ingredients from the previous year are championed. In summer it changes to ‘Abundance Season’, chock-full of fresh produce at its very best. Autumn to December becomes ‘Preservation Season’, where gluts of onions, beetroots, apples and other vegetables are served alongside plenty of other seasonal ingredients, while the kitchen team begin preparing any excess for the year ahead.

All the dishes on the menu are designed to be shared, although there is a distinct set of smaller starters, larger mains and desserts. Diners can choose what they like or opt for ‘The Roots Feast’, which allows the kitchen to send out a combination of their choosing. Wines are served by the bottle, carafe and glass, but the best drinks can be found outside of the wine list, often made with a range of liqueurs, distillates and cordials created from fruit, vegetables and herbs back in Oldstead.

While the food is not as complex as what’s on offer at The Black Swan, Roots encapsulates Tommy’s cooking style and approach to produce perfectly. The ingredients are second to none, the dishes are playful and innovative and the surroundings are relaxed, bright and comfortable. York is fast becoming a hotspot for incredible cooking, and its places like Roots we have to thank for that.