Veal sweetbread with celeriac ‘risotto’, wild mushrooms and tarragon

Begin by pickling the celeriac sheets. Peel the celeriac and use a mandoline to create 4 round sheets, as thin as possible (reserve the rest of the celeriac for the other elements of the dish). Place the pickle liquor ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Take off the heat and add the celeriac sheets, leaving them to pickle

To make the celeriac purée, square off the celeriac into a cube until you have 400g of trimmings. Set the cube of celeriac aside, then finely dice the 400g of trimmings and place in a pan with the milk, water, butter and pinch of salt. Simmer for 10–15 minutes or until the celeriac is very soft, then transfer to a blender and blitz until very smooth. Taste and season, then cover and reserve in the fridge

Dice the cube of celeriac into very small pieces, around the same size as rice grains. You can use a food processor to help with this but work carefully with the pulse setting. Blanch the celeriac in salted boiling water for 2 minutes then drain and cool down quickly in iced water. Drain and spread the celeriac out over a clean tea towel or kitchen roll to dry the pieces as much as possible

Place a large pan over a medium heat with a dash of oil and once hot, add the shallot and garlic and cook until soft with no colour. Add the celeriac dice to the pan with a pinch of salt and increase the heat. Cook for a few minutes until the celeriac just starts to take on a tiny bit of colour

Add a splash of water and a couple of tablespoons of the celeriac purée, then turn the heat down to medium and continue cooking. Keep tasting until the celeriac is cooked, adding more purée if needed. You want it cooked through, but still with each ‘grain’ mostly holding its shape and with a little bite – like a risotto. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and keep warm whilst you cook the sweetbreads

Season the sweetbreads all over. Place a pan over a high heat and, once smoking hot, add a dash of oil and carefully place the sweetbreads into the pan. Colour on each side for 3–4 minutes. Meanwhile, place the veal jus in a small pan and heat through

Once coloured all over, add the butter to the sweetbreads. As it begins to foam, start basting. Cook for a further 4 minutes then add a few spoonfuls of the hot veal jus and continue basting until the sauce reduces into a nice shiny glaze which clings to the sweetbreads. Remove from the pan and leave to rest somewhere warm whilst you cook the mushrooms

Place a small frying pan over a high heat with a dash of oil. Add the mushrooms and cook for a minute, then add the shallot. Once they are softened, add in the butter and vinegar and toss to coat. Finish with a pinch of salt

To serve, divide the warm celeriac risotto between bowls. Carve the sweetbreads into 4 equal pieces and place on top, along with a spoonful of the warm jus. Top with a pickled celeriac sheet, the mushrooms and fresh tarragon leaves