Rognon de veau sauce Madère – Veal kidney and Madeira sauce

  • 2
  • 45 minutes plus 4 hours for chilling the kidneys
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This simple dish of kidney in a Madeira sauce comes from Henry Harris, and uses veal kidney from family-run butchers HG Walter. The basis of this sauce is a good amount of Madeira (of course!) and also a rich, reduced veal stock. Henry suggests serving the kidney with buttery pomme purée (for which you can find a recipe here) and lots of rich sauce.

First published in 2024
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If the kidney still has its outer casing of suet fat, then carefully peel it away. Use a sharp knife or scissors to trim away the inner sinew from the interior of the kidney, but take care to leave enough that the kidney nodules stay together

  • 1 veal kidney

Form the kidney into a cylinder, and wrap it tightly in cling film, as you would for a ballotine. Chill for 4 hours


Cut the chilled kidney into six slices and then remove the clingfilm. Season with salt


Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan and add the kidneys in a single layer. Fry briskly for a few minutes until browned, then turn each of the slices over and fry for another 2–3 minutes. This will take them to a rosy pink

  • 1 dash of vegetable oil

Remove the slices from the pan and rest in a warm spot


Add the butter to the pan and, once foaming, add in the shallot. Turn down the heat and cook gently until softened


Pour in the Madeira and bring to the boil, then reduce by half

  • 75ml of dry Madeira

Add the veal stock and the mustard. Bring to a good boil and then whisk everything together


Add the cream and parsley then return the sauce to the boil. Check the seasoning and correct if needed. If the sauce needs more body add a knob of butter, then simmer the sauce until the butter has emulsified


Check the seasoning one final time and return the kidneys to the pan along with their juices. These are best served on a good quenelle of pomme purée. Arrange the kidneys on the purée and spoon over the sauce, serving any extra sauce alongside

  • pomme purée, to serve

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Henry Harris’s cuisine recalls the fine traditions of French bourgeois cooking with affection and generosity.

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