Preheat the oven to 200°C fan
Scrub the potatoes, prick them with a fork and rub with olive oil and salt. Place directly on the oven rack or a baking tray and bake for 1 hour, or until crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle
Meanwhile, for the filling, fry the pancetta in the olive oil until golden and crisp. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté for 2–3 minutes until softened. Toss in the spinach and allow it to wilt, then stir in the cream. Season to taste and set aside
Place the vinegar, water, sugar, salt and peppercorns in a small pan. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, add the onion rings and leave to steep for at least 20 minutes
Towards the end of baking, make the raclette cheese melt. Gently heat the cream and Dijon mustard, then stir in the raclette slices until melted into a thick, glossy sauce. Keep warm
Split the baked potatoes open and gently fluff the insides with a fork. Spoon in the pancetta and spinach filling, then pour over the warm raclette melt. Use a blowtorch to gently scorch the top of the cheese until bubbling and lightly browned
Top each potato with a tangle of quick-pickled onion rings, sprinkle over thyme leaves and finish with a sprinkle of chives. Serve hot, with extra pickled onions on the side

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