This recipe by Jordan Ezra King is inspired by his trip to Alla Beccaccia in Istria. Similar to a sausagey puttanesca, this dish uses fresh tomatoes rather than tinned, and makes a great comforting dinner on one of the UK's colder summer nights.
Fuži Istriani (or if you’re in Istria simply fuži) is a traditional Istrian pasta, deeply rooted in the culinary traditions of the northeastern Adriatic. Recognisable by their delicate, quill-like shape formed by wrapping diamond-shaped pasta dough around the handle of a wooden spoon or rod, they are typically made with just flour and water.
Fuži is often served with rich, slow-cooked sauces; wild game like venison or boar, or a creamy truffle sauce using Istria’s prized black or white truffles. Penne are a very similar shape and make a great substitution here. This sauce is quicker and lighter and based on a dish we were served at restaurant ‘Alla Beccaccia’ in the Southwest of Istria. It’s a bit like a puttanesca with the addition of a little sausage and, cleverly, rocket. Most recipes for sauce that use fresh tomatoes involve blanching and peeling them, but below is the way I do it which is much quicker and easier.
Make a slash in the bottom of each tomato and grate it on the coarse side of a box grater into a bowl, discard the skin. Stir in 1 tsp salt and set aside
Place a large frying pan over a medium heat with a splash of olive oil. Remove the skin from the sausages and add to the pan, breaking up with a spoon as they cook
Once they have some colour, add the onion and cook for a few more minutes until softened, then add the garlic and anchovies for 2 more minutes, stirring until the anchovies dissolve
Pour the tomato and all of the juices into the pan and bring to a simmer. Cook and reduce for about 15 minutes (you don’t want it too thick but it shouldn’t be very watery) then stir in the olives and capers
Boil the penne in plenty of well salted water until al dente, then toss with the sauce and rocket. Serve with a drizzle of good olive oil
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