How to create a vegetarian cheeseboard

A decent cheddar has to make an appearance at some point over the Christmas period, and it’s worth spending a little more to get a properly matured one with a little history behind it. West Country Farmhouse Cheddars are PDO-protected, which means they have to be made to a strict recipe in certain counties of England. While the rules don’t specify a particular rennet to use, a lot of the older dairies (such as Keen’s, Montgomery’s and Quickes) stick to their own traditional recipes, which always include animal rennet. More modern or mass-produced cheddars will be vegetarian, but if you’re buying a cloth-bound or cave-aged variety from your cheesemonger, do ask – they will know right away.

While they aren’t classic Christmas cheeses, Parmesan and Grana Padano are often used in cooking throughout the year. Both are guaranteed to contain animal rennet, as they are made to traditional recipes, so can’t be served to vegetarians. Instead, try Bookham’s Sussex Charmer, a cheese made here in the UK which works as a great alternative, especially when grated over dishes. There are also vegetarian ‘Italian-style hard cheeses’ in the supermarkets.

Another two hard cheeses to watch out for are Gruyere and Manchego, which can be made with or without animal rennet depending on the cheesemaker’s preference. And stay away from Mimolette, which is matured using cheese mites – tiny insects which remain in the rind when sold.

If you’re planning to use ricotta, mascarpone or mozzarella in your cooking, don’t worry – nearly all soft, very fresh cheeses like these are made without rennet of any kind. However, it’s very likely you’ll be including a brie or a camembert on the actual cheeseboard. Again, it’s important to check the packaging – for example, Brie de Meaux will always contain animal rennet, and most French camembert also contains it. But there are plenty of British cheesemakers creating modern vegetarian varieties that are just as good (if not better) than their European counterparts. Give Godminster Brie or Lubborn Somerset Camembert a go; two cheeses that make the most of the South West’s fantastic milk.

Vacherin Mont d’Or is another popular European cheese that’s not vegetarian, and many of the creamier, softer varieties throughout Europe are generally made with animal rennet. Winslade is a British interpretation of Vacherin Mont d’Or that’s absolutely fantastic, and is made in Hampshire.

The fantastically named Stinking Bishop is one of many ‘washed-rind’ cheeses, which are doused with a liquid (usually alcoholic) during maturation. They’re known for giving off an incredibly strong aroma (which is nice for some, unpleasant for others) and containing a mild, oozing centre with a floral, flavourful rind. Unfortunately, Stinking Bishop isn’t suitable for vegetarians, but Wales-based creamery Caws Cenarth make a fantastic alternative called Golden Cenarth without animal rennet.

That most festive of blue cheeses, Stilton, is thankfully almost always vegetarian – there are a few dairies that produce a ‘traditional rennet’ version, but they are clearly marked. The same doesn’t apply for popular European blues, however – many traditional Roqueforts aren’t vegetarian and all Gorgonzola contains animal rennet. Try Italian Dolcelatte for a veggie alternative to both, which has the same mild, creamy properties, or if you’re after an all-British board, Cashel Blue, Dorset Blue Vinny and Beauvale are all multi-award-winning cheeses made here in the UK.

Goat’s milk cheeses always look the most interesting on a board, especially when they’re rolled in ash, shaped into logs or covered in an aged, mottled rind. However, because they are so varied and different to one another, it’s impossible to know whether they’re vegetarian or not without asking someone in the know. As a rule, however, the classic French goat’s cheeses are generally made with animal rennet, while the more modern British ones (such as Ticklemore, Golden Cross and Rachel) are vegetarian.