When the ‘gin-aissance’ first began in the late 2000s, it arrived with predictions that the world would soon move on to the next big thing. Yet, over a decade later, the great gin boom has proved it is far from fleeting; the juniper-based spirit has now overtaken vodka as Britain’s favourite, with choices ranging from dry and spiced to citrusy and sweet readily available. For that, we have the changing of an eighteenth century law to thank, which had put in place strict requirements around minimum output to regulate the widespread home distillation of the time. After its relaxation, competition grew, driving producers to innovate to stand out from the crowd.

Master distiller Jacob Wilson, who owns The Henley Distillery, has closely watched the revival unfold. He produces hand-crafted, artisan spirits from an eighteenth century threshing barn just outside Henley-on-Thames, creating contemporary gins using methods rooted in tradition. The distillery is among just a handful which is not only run by but also owned by its master distiller, which Jacob says gives him the flexibility to put quality centre stage. Here, he talks us through five key types of gin.

If you’ve ever steeped fruit in gin at home, you’re already familiar with compound spirits. A term for gins which have been made without distillation, botanicals including all-important juniper berries (which are to gin what grapes are to wine), fruit, herbs and spices are infused in a neutral grain alcohol, such as vodka, with the alcohol slowly extracting their flavours and colours. Generally, compound gins are considered to be lower quality than others, but there are exceptions, Jacob explains, including where gin is distilled and then infused. They’re often better known as bathtub gins, a nickname coined during the prohibition era in the States, when would-be gin-makers infused spirits in large vessels, including, yes, bath tubs.

Their nature makes the range of possible flavours vast, and how you choose to drink yours comes down to personal preference, Jacob says. Like a classic pairing? Stick to tonic and lime. Have a sweeter tooth? Swap tonic for lemonade. And from grapefruit, orange and lemon to star anise and rosemary, experiment with garnishes. ‘People should drink their gin how they choose to,’ he says. ‘Everybody tastes differently and I would encourage people to use garnishes as they do seasoning in cooking. Find your perfect serve.’

Rather than an indicator of where it’s made, London Dry points to how a gin is distilled. Unlike Cognac or Tequila, London Dry gin can be made anywhere in the world, but it must meet strict criteria to qualify. In essence, all the flavour must come through distillation – botanicals sit in the still, their oils and extracts being drawn out. That mixture then vaporises and makes its way through the copper still, before turning back into condensation – or gin. London Dry producers are then only allowed to add water. It means most will have a dry, juniper-forward profile and be clear (sweet molecules and colour pigment can’t be distilled, after all), but Jacob says their similarities end there.

‘There’s as much variation in London Dry as there is with flavoured gins,’ he says. ‘With different spices and flavours you can have twenty different London Drys that will taste completely different.’ Henley’s Classic Dry (voted Best English London Dry at the World Gin Awards 2022) is distilled with orange peel, lime leaves, lemongrass, Szechuan peppercorns, cardamom and tonquin beans, while its Oriental Spiced has notes of long pepper, cubeb, ginger and lemon zest. Despite that range, London Dry’s typically juniper-led profile means they are often paired classically, with tonic, ice and a wedge of lime. ‘If the gin is juniper-forward, the lime cuts through that flavour,’ Jacob explains.

Enormously popular in the eighteenth century, the sweeter Old Tom gin died out before enjoying a resurgence over the last decade. It was, and remains, less regulated than London Dry – some Old Toms are clear, while others have a slight hue, some are barrel-aged and most are sweetened with sugar, honey or liquorice. At its peak in the eighteenth century, the government was taxing gin, forcing distillers to move production underground. To signify where people could find gin, black wooden cats – old toms – were mounted on walls of these secret distilleries. Under the cats’ paws were slots, through which buyers would receive their gin, sent down a lead pipe. The sweetness was originally added, the story goes, to mask the taste of the lead. That sweetness, Jacob says, might affect how you drink Old Tom, depending on your taste – the citrus of an orange slice garnish will highlight its sweetness, for example, and a full fat tonic might be too much compared to a lighter option.

From blushing pink and citrusy to notes of seaweed and saffron, flavoured gins have played a huge role in the craft gin movement, creating a new generation of gin-lovers. Flavoured gins, by nature usually compound gins, must have an ABV of 37.5% or above, with anything lower falling into the gin liqueur category (such as sloe gin), which look alike but have a syrupy, sweeter flavour. Both flavoured gins and liqueurs work well in longer, sweeter cocktails, Jacob says – pink gin for example, is often used in French 75s, boozy iced teas and gin spritzes, while Henley’s rhubarb and orange gin sings in a gin mojito. When it comes to garnishes, be creative – fruity gins can be complemented with berries or pomegranate, or contrasted with the likes of basil or chilli, while a spiced gin could be enhanced with black pepper, ginger or pink peppercorns. The likes of lavender and rose, or herbs like rosemary, pair perfectly with gins with a more floral profile.

The difference between single and multi-shot gin may be less obvious at first glance, but can make a big difference when it comes to quality, with single-shot seen as the pinnacle. In the single, or one-shot technique, once the botanicals have been distilled, the spirit is diluted with water to reach the right alcoholic strength for bottling – but that’s it. The bottles are then ready to be sold. It’s a method Jacob is an advocate of – all of Henley’s gins are produced to this standard. In comparison, multi-shot uses the ‘concentration method’; gin is distilled with a much higher percentage of botanicals to create a concentrate, which is watered down with a pre-made neutral spirit to ensure the mix goes further. Single-shot gin, Jacob says, is one to let shine – try it half gin and half tonic with ice. It’s also best for shorter, stronger cocktails, such as negronis and martinis.

Whether you have a penchant for pink gins, are a London Dry devotee or enjoy trying weird and wonderful new flavours, there’s a profile and garnish to suit every taste – and with some experimentation when it comes to garnishes and mixers, you can find your perfect serve.