With its fascinating history, beautiful architecture and incredible food scene, Lleida has everything you could ever want in a city break. But for whatever reason, it still isn’t a tourist hotspot – certainly not in comparison to nearby Barcelona and Tarragona, which sit happily on the east coast. As more of us get to grips with Catalonia’s diverse and regional food scene, however, the city (and surrounding province) of Lleida is set to become a must-visit for intrepid foodies across Europe.
Cast yourself back a couple of millennia, and Lleida was a city of considerable importance. It was frequently battled over by the Romans and Carthaginians, eventually becoming a crucial outpost in the Roman Empire – indeed, the battle for ‘Ilerda’, as it was known back then, is one of the most famous pieces of Julius Caesar’s own writings. Lleida flourished under Roman rule, and would be fought over for the next 2,000 years. The city has belonged to Visigoths, Moors and French rebels, then later on was bombed extensively during the Spanish Civil War. From a history that has often involved war, modern-day Lleida has risen from the ashes with a patchwork of influences that makes it intriguing, inspiring and completely unique.
Lleida has always been a city of great culture and art, and remains so to this day. The University of Lleida – originally founded in 1300 – was the oldest in Catalonia until it was closed in 1717, though it was re-established in 1991. There are numerous museums and monasteries throughout the city, each of which contain important artworks and artifacts from the last 2,000 years. The awe-inspiring Cathedral of St Mary – La Seu Vella, as it is called in Lleida – is one of Spain’s most important buildings and a revered religious site for Christians, particularly those who are travelling on the Camí de Sant Jaume, the pilgrimage route towards Santiago de Compostela.
Lleida is bursting at the seams with history, but this inland city also boasts another trump card for visitors. The agreeable climate (famously known for its fog, which is a tourist attraction in itself!) makes the southern parts of the province of Lleida a paradise for Mediterranean-style produce – not just the olives and olive oil which make the area famous, but also a bounty of wine, fruits, vegetables, sweets, pastries and much more. In the northern reaches of Lleida you’ll find the rugged mountains of the Pyrenees, where wild boar roam free and more rustic, hearty dishes are enjoyed. Read on to acquaint yourself with the incredible food scene of this enchanting destination.