Where you buy your fresh produce will hugely determine the volume of plumage crowning your veg. You’ll find enormous manes on bunches of carrots, radishes, beetroots and turnips in markets and in veg boxes. Celery, cauliflower and broccoli will all have been given less of a crew cut too. Supermarkets tend to trim quite ruthlessly to slow down the rate of spoilage; leaves and tops can turn slimy quickly and draw the moisture out of the veg beneath, but please don’t let this put you off. In fact, a healthy green quill is a strong indicator of freshness and, consequently, quality. Whatever the size of your greens, there are plenty of good meals to be made with them. Once thought of as fit only for pigs’ feed, the world is finally becoming aware of the neglected culinary treasures found in tops and leaves.
It’s worth trimming off these tops as soon as you can to store separately in the fridge, or you can freeze them for later use – both your vegetables and tops will last longer this way. Beet tops can be used as salad leaves, or try radish or Brussels tops in place of other leafy greens. Simply steam or wilt them in a little butter or stock, add them to soups, use them in curries in place of spinach, or try whizzing them in a processor to make pesto or salsa verde.
Beetroot leaves make a great alternative in any recipe that calls for chard – they taste quite similar, belonging, as they do, to the same family. Or, if you find yourself feeling nostalgic for the kale chip craze of 2012, why not try a waste-conscious upcycle by swapping out the kale for veg tops instead. Carrot and radish tops, turnip greens and beetroot leaves are all great in quick pickles made with sugar, salt and rice vinegar, while celery leaves can add a fresh, herbal note to suet dumplings or stews. Celery leaves can also be dehydrated in a dehydrator or low oven, then blitzed with salt to make celery salt – perfect for all your Bloody Mary needs.