Good fish, for most of us, means it needs to be as fresh as possible – but in the past few years a new school of thought has emerged. By dry-ageing fish (as is often done with meat) some of the water content is removed, intensifying the flavour and improving the texture. And if you’re after the best example of how this process impacts a dish, you can’t do better than The Sea, The Sea, an intimate restaurant tucked away in Haggerston, London.

Chef Leo Carreira is the maestro behind the single, omakase-style tasting menu, serving just twelve diners each service. This gives him complete control over every element and allows him to use only the very best fish and shellfish available, tweaking dishes daily depending on what’s at its very best. The seafood is of course the main focus here, but the accompaniments and flavours added are just as interesting – the likes of finger lime, infused misos, wild mushrooms and savoury toffee appear alongside the primary proteins.

With just twelve seats surrounding the open kitchen counter, there’s plenty for diners to see and watch as their meals are prepared and plated. A state-of-the-art lighting system bathes the old railway arch in a rainbow of different colours and hues, creating an immersive experience full of theatre. The room is centred around the counter, but you’ll also walk past a development kitchen and a seriously impressive running saltwater system full of live crustaceans. Quality of produce is paramount here, and Carreira along with founder Alex Hunter have put a huge amount of work into ensuring the daily delivery of ingredients are treated with the utmost care and respect.

When it comes to drinks, there’s a serious wine list that, as you’d imagine, leans towards whites and sparkling – but there’s a clutch of red wines that work well with the seafood-focused menu too. There are also sakes by the glass and a small selection of beers and cocktails.

The Sea, The Sea offers a dining experience unlike any other in the UK. The immersive art installation atmosphere and theatrical open kitchen are enough of a draw, but when you throw in Carreira’s almost undefinable cooking style and dry-aged fish and seafood that’s in such high demand even other restaurants are buying produce from them, it becomes a very special meal indeed.

Restaurant photography by Jodi Hinds.