It’s not hyperbole to describe Tom Aikens as one of the best chefs the UK has ever known. When he won two Michelin stars at Pied a Terre aged just twenty-six, he cemented his reputation as a culinary heavyweight. After winning another two stars at his eponymous restaurant in 2008 (which then shut its doors in 2014), he continued to run an empire of relaxed, informal restaurants under the Tom’s Kitchen brand, but Muse – which opened at the beginning of 2020 – marks his return to high-end, experience-led dining, confirmed by its own Michelin star in the 2021 edition of the guide.

The restaurant is housed inside a converted mews house in Belgravia, with just twenty-five seats in total. This small number allows Tom to really focus on every single plate of food, often coming out of the kitchen to introduce them himself and explain the thought processes behind each dish. Working with some of the best British suppliers in the business – Kernow Sashimi for fish, Fen Farm Dairy for beef, Hodmedods for pulses, grains and beans – he has returned to his classical yet inventive roots, with every course as beautiful as it is delicious.

Muse only serves tasting menus – either six or ten courses at dinner, or three or six courses at lunch – and for those going into the restaurant without looking up what’s going to be served in advance, a lot is left to the imagination. Each dish is named after an anecdote, milestone or experience from Tom’s life and career, with just the primary ingredients listed underneath. For example, ‘The love affair continues’ is a dish which pays homage to the chef’s love for French food and his mentors Pierre Koffmann and Joël Robuchon – the only details are that it’s made using turbot, duck confit and pommes purée.

The drinks list is well curated and not too long (although there are plenty of premium and unusual bottles to choose from for wine connoisseurs), with a selection of top-quality teas and coffees for after dinner. Cocktails are kept classic – think martinis, spritzes and sours – but have some innovative twists (and are mixed by the chefs themselves). There’s a selection of fermented soft drinks, too.

The décor is bold and luxurious, with plenty of wood, marble, gold and pink giving each of the two dining rooms their own identity. Muse is certainly set to become one of London’s must-visits for those with a love of high-end dining, and it’s fantastic to see such a talented chef come back to do what he does best: cook from the heart.