This elegant quail dish from Drew Snaith is perfect for a summer dinner party. Made with brined and fried quail, as well as a homemade redgage ketchup and an intense blackberry tare, it's a savoury celebration of summer fruits. The brine for the quail uses Lee Kum Kee Vegetarian Stir-fry Sauce, a deeply savoury alternative to oyster sauce that, combined bitter lager, gives the brine an extra dimension.
Bring all the ingredients for the brined quail crowns to a gentle simmer, then set aside and allow to cool fully
Remove the legs and wishbone from the quail so you are left with just the crown. Set the legs aside for later, and use sharp scissors to remove the backbone. Make a small snip on one side of the quail where the breastbone meets the breastplate – this allows the quail to cook more evenly on the grill as it will lie flatter
Place the quail crowns in the brine and then store in the fridge for 2 hours. Once brined, remove the quail crowns, pat dry and chill until needed
For the fennel salami stuffing, blend all ingredients until fairly smooth in a food processor. Transfer to piping bags and chill until needed
For the quail leg confit, season the eight quail legs with salt
Melt the fat in a saucepan with the other ingredients for the quail leg confit. Bring the mixture to 120°C
Carefully add the quail legs, bring back to 120°C, then cook, maintaining the temperature, for 1 hour
Remove the legs from the fat and set aside until cool enough to touch
When you can hold the legs comfortably, gently pull out the thigh bone and remove all cartilage
Pipe the stuffing into the legs, and chill in the fridge on absorbent paper or a clean kitchen towel for at least 2 hours, to fully cool and firm up
For the redgage ketchup, gently sweat the shallots with the salt and oil, making sure not to colour them, for about 15–20 minutes. Set aside
In a separate pan, make a light caramel in a high-sided, heavy bottomed pan with the sugar and the honey, swirling to dissolve the sugar as needed
Carefully add in the vinegar – it will spit, and be very hot, so stand back – and cook out for a couple minutes until the caramel has become glossy
Add in the shallots and redgages, and cook out over medium heat, stirring often, until thick and jammy. Allow to cool for 20 minutes
Blend until smooth, then adjust the seasoning as necessary with more acid or sweetness
Place all ingredients for the blackberry tare in a pan and cook over a medium heat, whisking constantly, for 5–7 minutes until the blackberries are broken down and the juice is cooked out
Blend until smooth and pass through a chinois. Reserve at room temperature
Mix together all the ingredients for the dredge and set aside
To fry the legs, set up a station with the whisked egg whites in one container, the dredge in another and place a rack inside a baking tray
Dip the stuffed legs one by one into the egg whites with one hand, ensuring that they’re fully coated. Then, with the other hand, dip them in the dredge and transfer to the rack to help dust off any excess
Heat up a deep-fat fryer to 180°C, or heat enough oil to deep fry the legs in a high-sided, heavy bottomed pan to 180°C
Fry the legs for 4–5 minutes or until cooked through, then drain on paper towels and season with a little fine salt
Prepare a charcoal barbecue for indirect cooking, with enough coals that you have a medium-low heat on the direct side rather than something very fierce
Soak the broccoli in water for 15 minutes, then drain and dress with the salt and butter
Place a fish cage over the coals to get reasonably hot
Lightly oil the brined quail crowns with the clarified butter
Remove the cage from the coals and carefully lay out the quail crowns in the cage so they have some space between them. Clamp the cage and return to coals, skin-side down
Allow to gently char for around 1 minute and then turn over and cook for a further minute
Remove from the direct heat and brush with the tare all over
Return to the coals for 30 seconds on each side again and then move to the indirect area, or a warm area above the coals, to rest for 3–5 minutes, depending on how well done you like it
While the quail is resting, brush the cage clean and then lay out the broccoli on the cage, clamp and return to the coals. Cook on each side for 2 minutes
Carve the breasts cleanly from the crowns and brush the skin side with a little more tare mixed with some of the resting juices
Serve with the legs, broccoli and ketchup on the side
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