Asparagus with spruce emulsion and seasonal flowers

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Luke French's beautiful asparagus starter sees the vegetable grilled and brushed with a sweet and sharp spruce glaze and served with a vibrant green spruce emulsion and a selection of seasonal herbs and flowers. The recipe makes more spruce glaze and emulsion then needed but can be in the fridge for a week. You’ll need some specialist ingredients such as spruce vinegar and pickled spruce tips.

First published in 2021

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Asparagus

  • 4 asparagus spears, as large as you can find – Luke uses Yorkshire asparagus
  • clarified butter, ideally smoked, for brushing
  • 50ml of parsley oil, made by blending parsley leaves and oil together then straining
  • sea salt, to taste

Spruce glaze

  • 120g of rice vinegar, Luke uses a vinegar called Oishi Su made by Nihon Shizen Hakku
  • 150g of caster sugar
  • 10g of pickled spruce
  • 25g of spruce vinegar
  • 3.5g of agar agar
  • 15g of spruce oil

Spruce emulsion

  • 25g of shio koji
  • 25g of pickled spruce
  • 60g of spruce vinegar
  • 20g of dashi
  • 30g of hon mirin
  • 2 egg yolks, Luke uses Burford Brown eggs
  • 240g of parsley oil
  • 10g of kombu oil

To serve

Equipment

  • Thermomix or blender
  • Squeezy bottle
  • Barbecue or chargrill pan
  • Steamer

Method

1

Begin by making the spruce glaze. Place all the ingredients apart from the spruce oil into a pan and bring to the boil to activate the agar agar. As soon as it’s boiling, transfer the mixture into a container and place in the fridge to set. Once set, transfer to a blender, blitz until smooth and mix in the spruce oil. Set aside until needed

  • 120g of rice vinegar, Luke uses a vinegar called Oishi Su made by Nihon Shizen Hakku
  • 150g of caster sugar
  • 10g of pickled spruce
  • 25g of spruce vinegar
  • 3.5g of agar agar
  • 15g of spruce oil
2

For the emulsion, place all the ingredients (apart from the parsley oil and kombu oil) into a blender. Blitz for 1 minute to create a thick paste, then with the motor running on low, slowly drizzle in both oils to create an emulsion. If it begins to split, add a drop of cold water to bring it back together again. Transfer to a squeezy bottle and set aside

  • 25g of shio koji
  • 25g of pickled spruce
  • 60g of spruce vinegar
  • 20g of dashi
  • 30g of hon mirin
  • 2 egg yolks, Luke uses Burford Brown eggs
  • 240g of parsley oil
  • 10g of kombu oil
3

To cook the asparagus, set up a large steamer and light a small charcoal barbecue – you could also cook them on a very hot griddle pan but the smokiness from the charcoal makes a huge difference to the final flavour

4

Trim the asparagus spears if needed. Brush the spears with smoked clarified butter and grill, turning regularly, until lightly blistered. Transfer the spears to a container, then pour over the parsley oil, tossing to coat. Transfer to the steamer and steam for around 5 minutes, until tender throughout

  • 4 asparagus spears, as large as you can find – Luke uses Yorkshire asparagus
  • clarified butter, ideally smoked, for brushing
  • 50ml of parsley oil, made by blending parsley leaves and oil together then straining
5

Brush the spears liberally with the spruce glaze and season with sea salt, then place a single spear on each plate. Decorate the asparagus with edible flowers and herbs. Finish by piping a neat dot of the emulsion beside it and sprinkle with nori powder

First published in 2021

Combining local produce with Asian influences out of a Sheffield shipping container, Luke French is part of a new generation of modern British chefs pushing the county’s cuisine forward.

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