Typing Room review

We began with a series of snacks – ‘onion bhaji, yoghurt and mango chutney’, ‘crispy fish skin, smoked cod, oyster and dill’ and ‘pig’s head and smoked apple’. My favourite had to be the pig’s head – its beautifully soft flesh encased in a crispy coating with a smoky apple purée beneath (I’d eat them every day if I could). The onion bhaji was as far from an Indian takeaway side as you could get, with a delicate tuile-like shell holding creamy yoghurt, and a mango chutney for dipping – with cucumber dust at one end, it was rather reminiscent of a tiny cigar. To some, crispy fish skin might not sound like the most appealing thing to eat, but imagine the texture of the lightest prawn cracker you’ve ever eaten, with just the merest hint of fish – then topped with tiny dots of smoked cod brandade, oyster emulsion and feathery dill fronds, with a side of smoked turbot roe on oyster leaves.

Before the starters, the famed IPA sourdough with marmite butter and popped barley arrived – so inviting, I tore into it with abandon – actually neglecting to photograph it. Praised by countless food critics, it has become one of the best-known dishes in the restaurant, with the Guardian’s Marina O’Loughlin proclaiming it ‘worthy of stalking obsession’.

The starters were ‘mackerel, strawberry grapes, burnt cucumber and quinoa’ and ‘yeasted cauliflower, raisins, capers and mint’. What struck me immediately about both of these dishes were the use of grapes, with the strawberry variety adding a blush of colour to the mackerel. I’m not a fan of grapes on a cheese board, so I was surprised at how well they complimented these savoury courses – I’ll certainly be looking for ways to include them in dishes at home. The yeasted cauliflower is one of Lee’s signature dishes, and the one I was most looking forward to trying. It didn’t disappoint and I reluctantly passed over my half-finished plate to swap for the rest of the mackerel. It was hard to decide what my favourite element was – the dehydrated cauliflower on top, the heavenly yeasted cauliflower purée or the cauliflower fondant pieces. But it’s a dish that would bring me back to the restaurant, regardless of what else was on the menu – I could have eaten it three times over.

Our main courses were ‘suckling pig, flat peach, chard and dandelion’ and ‘cod, mussels, watercress and mushroom’ – and it was here that I was glad we’d chosen to share. I will always pick meat over fish for main course, but the cod was probably the best fish dish I’ve ever eaten – so seemingly simple and unassuming, it had so many levels of flavour and texture. The gherkins and mussels providing sweet and salty notes, with the cod (easily yielding with the barest nudge of a fork) topped with crunchy crumbs. The suckling pig dish was made up of loin and belly with little onions charred alongside the peaches. A particular highlight on this plate was the pale pink peach purée – its sweet, yet refreshing flavour lifting what could have been a very rich dish.