As the temperature drops and the first frost sets in, at Where The Light Gets In we are busy preparing for the time of year known traditionally as the ‘Hungry Gap’.
Before the advent of growing with artificial energy in polytunnels and flying produce in from overseas, the Hungry Gap referred to a time of year when fresh food grown by traditional methods starts to slow down. It is a time when the English kitchen garden dies back, leaving only a handful of brassica and roots. As we don’t use produce grown abroad or out of season ingredients, we enjoy this time immensely as it tests our creativity and resources to come up with a delicious and inventive menu for our guests.
The Hungry Gap lasts from December right up until the end of April, which is when the first broad beans are picked from their pods. It means we are left to rely on roots such as celeriac, parsnips and potatoes, along with the likes of cured squash, grains and pulses, shellfish and the plethora of preserves that we have prepared in advance.
We begin to use the smoker and add more fats to our dishes in order to get a depth and richness that will combat the chill. We serve a broth to the beginning of the menu to welcome our guests in from the cold. We add richness to dishes using cheese. There are still some things that can be sourced from the wild, too. We take the last of the rosehips, haws, three-cornered leek, chestnuts and roots from dandelion and burdock.