Protected food classifications in Portugal

In 1756, Portugal became the first country in the world to create a protected wine area, when the Marquis of Pombal defined and protected The Douro Valley to ensure the quality of Port wine, which was then at the height of its success. The early 20th century saw the creation of the região demarcada system, which sought to distinguish Portuguese wine regions. Following Portugal’s entry into the European Union in 1986, the denominação de origem controlada system was established to protect both regional wines and other agricultural products.

As with other European countries, the new EU regulations were adopted in the nineties, but in practice existing classifications are often used as the European system is relatively unknown by consumers in Portugal. The uptake of the European classifications differs between food products and sectors.

As with all other countries in the EU, there are three types of European protection available for foods and agricultural products. Under EU law, wines have their own scheme and are classified separately to other drinks and foodstuffs, although wines still bear the same PDO/PGI labels.

Number of protected foods: 133

The denominação de origem controlada system for the classification and protection of wines, cheeses, butters and other agricultural products was established in the eighties, modelled on the French, Italian and Spanish systems.

The DOC classification determines production methods as well as geographical regions and wine samples must be submitted to the regulatory body for approval. A secondary classification, indicação de proveniência regulamentada, can be awarded to wines that have distinctive characteristics, but have not adhered to the rules for the production for high quality wine for the minimum five years.

Products that had been awarded national protected food status at the time of the European regulations were grandfathered into the new system and a mix of the old DOC and new European classifications are used on products from the country. A mandate to switch is unlikely to be introduced until 2020 at the earliest.

This is the strongest protection that can be afforded to a food. It is used to classify food with characteristics that are completely unique to a place or region.

To qualify for this status, the food must meet two specific criteria:

Queijo Serra da Estrela is made in a region located on the Beira uplands, an area centred on the Serra da Estrela National Park which includes Portugal’s highest mountain range. The local micro-climate is characterised by long, cold, rainy winters and hot, dry summers, and the natural pastures are rich in wild perennial grasses, herbs and clover, which lend the cheese a unique flavour.

There is evidence of cheese production in the region stretching back to Roman times, a history that has resulted in particular animal husbandry expertise and distinct local methods of cheese production – this cheese is made entirely by hand. The cheese is made from raw ewe’s milk using local cardoon thistles (Cynara cadunculus) as rennet and only Bordaleira Serra da Estrela or Churra Mondegueira sheep (both local breeds) can be used for milk. All breeding, milk and cheese production, aging and processing takes place in the region.

The result is a rich, perfumed cheese flavoured by seasonal grazing on the unique local flora. Considered the king of Portuguese cheeses, the paste varies in texture depending on age, ranging from soft, semi-liquid when very young to supple and dense when aged. Its particular qualities are the result of traditional slow-draining techniques and the use of local thistle instead of animal rennet.

This protection is afforded to foods that have a connection with a place or region.

To qualify for this status, the food must meet two specific criteria: