Most of us are familiar with the concept of a tuna tartare by now, but it’s not as old as its surname might suggest. Steak tartare can be traced back at least as far as the early twentieth century, but tuna tartare is very much a child of the eighties – allegedly the invention of Japanese-born, French-trained chef Shigefumi Tachibe, who rustled one up on the spot at his Beverly Hills brasserie when a table of six turned their noses up at the prospect of raw beef. The dish caught on like wildfire, and it has become a staple of restaurant menus ever since. In many ways, tuna tartare has become a benchmark for accomplished chefs – a good tartare requires a delicate touch, an expert palate and a real respect and appreciation for quality produce.
Judging by the quality of his tuna tartare, Gary Foulkes is certainly one of those chefs. His food at Angler doesn’t shy away from bold, luxurious flavours, but his cooking remains light on the palate and beautifully balanced. Gary was born in Merseyside, but like Shigefumi, his food is an intriguing blend of classical French and global influences – a result of his time at restaurants like The Square and Aubergine, and a three-year trip that changed his life. ‘I'd been working in kitchens since I was sixteen,’ he explains, ‘and sure, you work in different kitchens, but you get to a point where your learning stagnates. I went travelling with my wife for three years and I found this new enthusiasm for everything because I was seeing so many different ingredients and different ways of doing things. It had a real impact on me, not just as a chef, but as a person.’
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Mind to menu: Gary Foulkes’ tuna tartare