Wrocław (pronounced, roughly, vrots-waff) is a beautiful Polish city in the southwest of the country. Its viral kebab shops, intertwined neon signs and quiet cobblestone streets are hard to reconcile with its bloody history. For most, the term ‘risen from the ashes’ is purely metaphorical. For Wrocław, it is painfully literal. Following the Siege of Breslau (as Wrocław was then known) in the last days of WWII, up to 80,000 civilians were killed, and half of the city centre was completely destroyed. Standing in the Old Town today, and looking around, this is hard to believe. Over decades, careful reconstruction in Wrocław has restored the city to its former glory, and its bright and colourful houses and shops stand defiantly on the foundations of their forebears.

Walking through the elegant city streets, shot through with rivers and museums, there are constant, subtle reminders that it is not a place which takes its new-found peace for granted. The Four Denominations District (also home to the stunning Neon Side Gallery) celebrates the fact that you can find a Jewish synagogue, and three different types of churches (Lutheran, Orthodox and Roman Catholic) almost within touching distance, with all four faiths working to promote tolerance. The ever-popular gnomes which are scattered throughout the city began as a memorial to an anti-authoritarian non-violent resistance movement that started in Wrocław.

Perhaps, as a city that’s changed nationality more than any other in Europe, it shouldn’t be surprising that Wrocław embraces change so wholeheartedly. The city’s lively restaurant scene certainly has no problem meeting the fast-changing demands of its large student population, as well as upholding the region’s traditional cuisine. 

Read on to find out our recommendations of where to go to get a taste of this remarkable city’s past, present and future.

This central restaurant is a great place to get a sense for traditional Silesian cooking. Try sweet Silesian heaven, chewy Silesian dumplings and savoury beef roulade, then wash it all down with schnapps made in-house, for a seriously delicious introduction to what Wrocław has to offer.

Renowned Polish chef Beata Śniechowska’s exacting, yet playful approach to cooking is on full display at her restaurant BABA, a slang term for ‘woman’ in Polish. From the jade-green cabinets designed exclusively for the restaurant by a carpenter in Krakow, to the ingredients grown at the restaurant’s own farm, this is a restaurant where no detail goes unnoticed. Don’t miss the ‘petit bonbons’ – truffle and mushroom-filled dumplings – or the oyster served in intensely fragrant chicken broth. Alongside your meal you can enjoy a selection of Polish wines, and to finish – naturally – an exquisite rum baba.

Poland is known for its beer, and Wrocław is definitely not letting the side down. Meaning ‘One Hundred Bridges Brewery’ in Polish, this brewery is named for the city’s countless bridges criss-crossing over its islands and waterways.

However, at Browar Stu Mostów they do things slightly differently. From wild-fermented beers made in old whisky casks, to orange espresso beers so tart and zesty they’re almost a self-contained shandy, the creativity at this brewery knows no bounds. They do collabs with breweries from around the world, including Left Handed Giant in Bristol and Wylam Brewery in Newcastle, so don’t be surprised if you see their name popping up at your favourite pub.

Wrocław’s imposing Centennial Hall is capable of holding up to 10,000 people, and surrounded by extensive and manicured parks. It’s a great place to go for a walk and get some fresh air, while enjoying one of the city’s best examples of brutalist architecture. If you fancy trying a meal with a view, check out Tarasowa. This restaurant, located in the Centennial Hall itself, overlooks the dramatic multimedia fountain. Its tasting menu is inspired by traditional Polish cuisine, from elegant, spiraling pierogi to a selection of homemade rye bread. A great place to enjoy a slow lunch and an incredible view.

If you’re looking for a slightly more relaxed and modern space to enjoy traditional Polish cuisine, come to Ida. They have a range of highly traditional dishes – rich and sour Żurek, comforting cabbage rolls and nourishing sorrel soup – alongside yoga for women on Sundays and healthy beetroot shots. It’s a friendly, welcoming space where you can get a glimpse of how ambitious young Polish chefs, like chef-owner Małgorzata Karkocha-Jakubowska, are marrying tradition and modernity.

Proudly Polish fine dining, this two-for-one restaurant celebrates the quality of local Polish ingredients such as asparagus and duck. With a divided menu and building, you can choose to enjoy your meal in the main dining room at Między Mostami, or head to Most for a private tasting menu experience. The restaurant’s head chef, Łukasz Budzik, cut his teeth at Arzak in San Sebastian, and won the Culinary Grand Prix of Wrocław.

If you’re interested in seeing even more incredible brutalist architecture, we’d recommend a trip to Wrocław’s Hala Targowa. Built in 1908, the first thing you’ll notice when you walk through the door is Hala Targowa’s towering concrete arches. Stepping inside feels like walking through a concrete cathedral filled with some of the city’s best produce. To get a sense of the scale, we recommend walking up to the second floor. It’s also a great place to try food from a milk bar, communist-era cafeterias serving Polish home cooking at affordable prices.