London may still be the epicentre of British gastronomy, but there are plenty of other hotspots across the land giving the capital a run for its money. Bristol, for example, is buzzing with new food businesses these days, as is Liverpool, York and many others. 400 miles further north, Edinburgh has a thriving food scene too – one that rivals anywhere else in the country. There have always been some exceptionally talented chefs plying their trade up here – Martin Wishart has held a Michelin star for nearly twenty years at his eponymous restaurant in Leith, while the likes of Tom Kitchin and Roy Brett have long held stellar reputations for outstanding food in the heart of the city. The old guard have always championed Scottish produce, but there’s a new wave of restaurateurs and chefs on the horizon who are delving deeper into Scottish food history than anyone has before.
Leading the charge is husband-and-wife team Ben Reade and Sashana Souza Zanella. The pair are both graduates of the prestigious University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont, where they met as fellow students. Sashana stayed on as a tutor whilst Ben departed for Copenhagen to head up research and development at Noma’s Nordic Food Lab. Three years later, they reunited in Scotland’s capital to set up Edinburgh Food Studio – a restaurant and research hub that digs deep into the substructure of Scottish food and uncovers some of the unique treasures that make up the country’s cuisine.
