The French food revival: Steeven Gilles at Céleste

Céleste is where Steeven continues to cook today, with Eric Frechon keeping an eye on things as patron in France. And while it is most definitely a French restaurant, it’s different from the others, thanks to Steeven’s more worldly approach and his time at The Ledbury. ‘What I loved most about working with Brett Graham at The Ledbury was his love for British produce and using the whole of the animal, and that’s something we now do at Céleste,’ he says. ‘There are lots of things we try to do here that are also done at Epicure in Paris, such as using French techniques to cook food, but there are differences too.’

Looking at Céleste’s menu, you can see plenty of classical French influences – but amongst the truffle mayonnaises and butter sauces there are flourishes of multicultural cooking. Lamb saddle comes in a nori seaweed crust; Cornish mackerel is dressed in Japanese miso with aubergines; octopus is served in satay spices with a rabbit sausage. So while the dishes might be cooked following classical French technique, they offer a marriage of the best British ingredients and a mix of French and international flavours.

However, the question remains: why isn’t this sort of cooking – which is one of the best things about the British food scene – more common in France? ‘Personally, I think we are a bit too arrogant in France,’ says Steeven. ‘We think we are the best but we don’t watch what’s going on elsewhere. That’s why I love London so much; it’s so multicultural and open-minded when it comes to food and you are free to cook however you want, whereas in France – particularly in the south – you’re bound by tradition. I think it’s certainly getting better, and in five years we’ll be the same as London, but there is some catching up to do.’

Working in London isn’t without its downsides, however – Steeven quickly realised how hard it was to find good staff members in the UK, while in France it’s much easier. But he spends a lot of time training his front of house team, and wants to bring a bit more theatre into the stunning dining room, with chef trolleys, cloches and beautiful looking plates of food. He’s also not shy about the fact he’s pushing for a second Michelin star. Whether that happens or not, Céleste is certainly a place where you can experience some incredible French cooking at a Michelin star level, without the restrictions and boundaries you might find in Paris. And for the increasingly diverse British palate, that can only be a good thing.