The Elephant restaurant, the double-header venture from Simon Hulstone, is split into two sections. The Room is upstairs from the Brasserie, offering diners unadulterated wizardry from the mercurial chef.
Decked out in the same modern and elegant style, with portraits of the pachyderms themselves around the walls, The Room offers more good views over the bay in which the restaurant is situated – comfortably away from the bustle of the tourist centre, but close enough to be accessible.
The focus is on either a two or three course dinner, or the tasting menu (there is also an a la carte choice available), with local ingredients to the fore - hand-dived scallops from the bay, for example, may shine atop a confit lemon risotto.
Expect to see Hulstone's typical use of unusual natural ingredients in full force – beef sharing a plate with squid, flowers and petals used as adornments, and effervescent fish and seafood dishes.
The presentation highlights the contrasting colours and textures of the dish, with the main elements peeking out of foams, sitting atop piles, arranged artfully and tweaked and teased until perfect. As with The Brasserie – taste is key – textural differences and contrasts in flavours are the order of the day in this, one of the region's most lauded restaurants.
Wines are available by the glass and are reasonably priced.
3-4 Beacon Terrace, Torquay, Devon, TQ1 2BH
(01803) 200 044
